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Steps to create compost at home using a clay pot and kitchen waste (and a couple other waste items)

There are numerous ways of making compost at home (we are ignoring larger scale community practices or those used by farms), concentrating on what an individual family can do. If you search on the internet, people have posted many ways – Some use clay pots, some use buckets, some use barrels, some use specialized equipment sold for making compost, some make wire meshes, some even just use simple piles on the ground; and the incredible thing about making compost – all these techniques work. Here is a simple technique that I have been using for the past many months, and it seems to be working perfectly well to make good quality compost.

You need a good clay pot (with a hole in the bottom) and a regular supply of household kitchen waste (but not using cooked leftovers, or items left over from making chicken / beef / fish items). I also use cardboard (not coated, or glazed – just simple cardboard) as the brown component of the compost pile (the kitchen waste is the green portion of the compost pile).

1. Line the bottom of the clay pot with shredded cardboard and/or dry leaves (or pea shells)
2. Start filling up the clay pot with kitchen waste (I don’t exclude anything, so vegetable / fruit peels, egg shells, pea shells, everything goes). While adding up this kitchen waste, I shred cardboard (excluding the shiny / waxes / glazed ones). Can use dry leaves equally or even better. These shredded pieces should not be more than a finger in size
3. Mix these up inside the pot.
4. Cover with a section of newspaper and cover the clay pot with something rigid so that rats / lizards don’t get inside.
5. Repeat step 2 with fresh kitchen waste upto step 4
6. Every few days, use a metal or wooden stick to shake up everything and ensure that there are no clumps inside (waste tends to form a clump if there are no gaps – shredded cardboard and degrade both help to prevent formation of clumps)
7. I have not had to add water or other stuff, since the waste releases enough liquid; if it seems to dry, up add water, and if you have buttermilk, add that.

Kitchen raw waste and shredded cardboard as a part of the compost pile

8. If there is too much gooey or watery, add shredded paper / cardboard / dry leaves
9. If there are maggots, don’t worry, they will go away as the compost develops.
10. Keep monitoring, when you see the material having broken down into fine substance and no bad smell, you need to sieve and get the fine compost.

Sieving the compost to remove larger unprocessed items

The final ready compost after sieving

Puccinellia Nutkaensis, also known as Nootka alkali grass

Images of Puccinellia Nutkaensis at google.com

Puccinellia Nutkaensis is also known by the following names:
• Nootka alkali grass
• Alaska alkali grass

It is native to:
• North America
• from Alaska
• across northern Canada
• to Greenland
• Nova Scotia
• down the west coast of the United States
• to the Central Coast of California

Habitat
– coastline in wet areas
– rocky
– sandy saline soils
– salt marshes
– inter-tidal zone in Alaska
– cold saltwater during high tides
• This species is a perennial bunch-grass.
• This plant is quite different in appearance.
• It takes a petite and a clumpy form.
• It grows up to a height of 90 centimeters.
• It bears robust inflorescence.
• These types of grasses grow in moist conditions, generally in saline or alkaline conditions.
• Puccinellia belongs to Poaceae family.

Scientific Classification of Puccinellia Nutkaensis

• Kingdom : Plantae
• (unranked) : Angiosperms
• (unranked) : Monocots
• (unranked) : Commelinids
• Order : Poales
• Family : Poaceae
• Genus : Puccinellia
• Species : P. nutkaensis
Binomial name : Puccinellia nutkaensis

Growing/Caring conditions

• Puccinellia seed ought to be sown in gently cultivated soil which has excellent weed control right after the break in season.
• Sowing rates are between 6 – 10kg/ha.
• More saline the ground is, the dense the bed of seed ought to be i .e., the higher the percentage of seed employed.
• When sowing on clean scalds, seed is generally sown without turning round later on.
• Results to date demonstrate puccinellia does respond well to nitrogen-based fertilizer.
• The ideal response is from an autumn/winter practical application (i.e., applied shortly after the seasonal break).
• This strategy is good in supplying the space such that it does not get waterlogged within four weeks of use of urea.
• Plant appearance might take as much as two months.
• Make sure absolutely no grazing takes place in the initial ten to twelve months, enabling the stands to originate properly.
• Most important is the fact that Puccinellia is not greatly grazed for lengthy duration.
• Puccinellia most likely will turn out to be invasive in non-agricultural regions.
• To avoid this danger it is strongly recommended that sowing must enable buffer zones besides these ‘at risk’ areas.

The following buffer ranges for public and also local vegetation areas is suggested:
– 100 metres from saline areas
– 50 metres from poorly drained areas
– 50 metres from waterways
– 25 metres from other non-agricultural areas

Pests
• The red legged earth mite is known to damage the most damage in the establishment period.
• It is a pest that has to be monitored and controlled.

Puccinellia Maritima, also known as Seaside alkali grass or Common saltmarsh-grass

Images of Puccinellia Maritima at google.com

Puccinellia maritima is also known by the names:
• Seaside alkali grass
• Common saltmarsh-grass
• Sea poa grass

It is native to:
• Western Europe
• Most of North East North America

It grows in:
– Moist
– Usually saline soils
• It is a species of alkali grass.
• It can grow up to a height of 80 cm.
• The leaves are of grayish-green color.

Characteristics of Puccinellia Maritima

• Habitat: aquatic terrestrial wetlands
• Found in: New England state
Connecticut
– Maine
– Massachusetts
– New Hampshire
– Vermont
• Leaf blade width: 2–4.4 mm
• Inflorescence branches with flowers attached to them and not to the main axis.
• Spikelet length: 5.5–13 mm

Glume
– Awn on glume
– The glume has no awn
– One or more florets
– There is more than one floret per spikelet
• Leaf ligule length; 1–3.5 mm
• Anther length: 1.5–2.6 mm

Scientific Classification of Puccinellia Maritima

• Kingdom : Plantae
• (unranked) : Angiosperms
• (unranked) : Monocots
• (unranked) : Commelinids
• Order : Poales
• Family : Poaceae
• Genus : Puccinellia
• Species : P. maritima
• Binomial name : Puccinellia maritima

Growing/Caring conditions

• Puccinellia seed ought to be sown in gently cultivated soil which has excellent weed control right after the break in season.
• Sowing rates are between 6 – 10kg/ha.
• More saline the ground is, the dense the bed of seed ought to be i .e., the higher the percentage of seed employed.
• When sowing on clean scalds, seed is generally sown without turning round later on.
• Results to date demonstrate puccinellia does respond well to nitrogen-based fertilizer.
• The ideal response is from an autumn/winter practical application (i.e., applied shortly after the seasonal break).
• This strategy is good in supplying the space such that it does not get waterlogged within four weeks of use of urea.
• Plant appearance might take as much as two months.
• Make sure absolutely no grazing takes place in the initial ten to twelve months, enabling the stands to originate properly.
• Most important is the fact that Puccinellia is not greatly grazed for lengthy duration.
• Puccinellia most likely will turn out to be invasive in non-agricultural regions.
• To avoid this danger it is strongly recommended that sowing must enable buffer zones besides these ‘at risk’ areas.

The following buffer ranges for public and also local vegetation areas is suggested:
– 100 metres from saline areas
– 50 metres from poorly drained areas
– 50 metres from waterways
– 25 metres from other non-agricultural areas

Pests
• The red legged earth mite is known to damage the most damage in the establishment period.
• It is a pest that has to be monitored and controlled.

Pittosporum Tobira belongs to the Pittosporum family

Images of Pittosporum Tobira at google.com

Pittosporum Tobira belongs to the Pittosporum family. It is a species of flowering plant.

Overview of Pittosporum Tobira

• The common names include:
– Japanese pittosporum
– Japanese mock-orange
– Japanese cheesewood
• It is native to:
– Japan
– China
– Korea
• Uses of Pittosporum Tobira:
– ornamental plant in landscaping
– cut foliage
• It is a shrub.
• It can grow up to a height of 10 m and is 3 m broad.
• The plant can also be trimmed into a hedge.
• The leaves are oval in shape.
• Their edges curl.
• They are up to a length of 10 cm.

Common pests include:
• Aphids
• Mites
• Leafhoppers
• The cotton cushiony scale
• Root-knot nematodes
• Pit-making pittosporum scale
• Pathogen Erythricium salmonicolor

Diseases:
• galls
• dieback disease (pink limb blight)

Scientific Classification of Pittosporum

• Kingdom : Plantae
• (unranked) : Angiosperms
• (unranked) : Eudicots
• (unranked) : Asterids
• Order : Apiales
• Family : Pittosporaceae
• Genus : Pittosporum
• Species : P. tobira
• Binomial name : Pittosporum tobira

Growing/Caring conditions

Cultivation particulars
• Succeeds for most well-drained soils.
• Needs fairly high quality in full sun or light shade.
• Achieves results in dry soils.
• Extremely resistant to maritime subjection.
• Established plants are drought tolerant.
• Hardy to roughly -10°c
• Succeeds outside on the coastline of S. England and in London.
• Plants might be approximately 10m tall in their indigenous habitat, however, seldom exceed 2m in Britain.
• There exist certain named forms, chosen for their decorative value.
• The blossoms are extremely fragrant with a fragrance comparable to orange blossom which enables you to pervade the air for a substantial distance.
• Extremely amenable to pruning, plants may be cut right back to old wood if needed.
• The species in this genus are extremely prone to hybridize with members of the genus.
• While developing a species from seed it is very important to make sure that the seed either originates from a known wild source, or perhaps from remote specimens in cultivation.
• Vegetation in this genus is particularly immune to honey fungus.

Propagation
• Seed – sow while ripe in the autumn or perhaps in late winter in a comfortable greenhouse.
• The seed generally germinates readily.
• Prick away the seedlings into separate pots while they are large enough to cope with, shift the plants to a cold frame right after they are developed and grow out late in the next spring.
• Consider providing them certain protection from the cold throughout their first winter outside.
• Cuttings of half-ripe wood, five to seven centimeters with a heel can be taken in July/August.
• Basal ripe-wood cuttings should be taken in late autumn in a cold frame.