If you are interested in getting Calla Lilies for your garden, and are unable to get some friends or a neighboring garden to get you bulbs, then you may consider growing these White beautiful Lilies from seed. Here’s a complete article that describes how to grow the Lilies from seed (link). Here are some extracts from the article:

Before even thinking about planting the calla lily seeds one needs to sort out the best ones by pregrowing them a little. This is done simply by placing a folded damp paper towel on a plate and then spread out the seeds upon it.
There are a lot of reasons not to plant the seed straight out in the garden among birds and mice, there are a lot of dangers still out there for a little seed so the best thing is to preplant it in a small pot so it can grow strong and healthy in peace.

Read the rest of the article at the original link.

An annual or biennial herb (Coriandrun sativum), of the Parsley Family, grown for it’s aromatic seeds which are used for flavoring liquors and confections. This pungent herb is native of southern Europe and is commonly known as Coriander, Cilantro, or Chinese Parsley. Its name is said to be derived from koris, Greek for “bedbug” since the plant smelled strongly of the insect. The leaves are most commonly referred to as cilantro and have a much different taste from the seeds, one that is similar to parsley with a dash of citrus flavor.
Cilantro is the most difficult herb to grow because it is so short lived and it needs cool temperatures to grow well. Many people think that they kill Cilantro because it doesn’t last very long when they purchase plants at their local nursery. Cilantro will bolt (send up a flower stalk) as soon as the roots get above 75 degrees or so. Cilantro needs to be grown in early spring or fall when the weather is cool. It requires mostly sunshine but can be grown in morning sun and shade in the hot afternoon. Growing it in the ground with mulch on top of the roots helps keep the soil cooler longer (Add a bit of mulch or compost to your cilantro bed to provide nutrients for the soil and an extra layer of protection for the roots).
Cilantro grows best in full sun. Plant the seed 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep every 1 inch in rows 12 inches apart. Keep moist until seeds germinate, which should take about 7 to 10 days. No thinning is required. Some growers will seed cilantro thicker than this (30 – 40 seeds/foot). Deep, fertile, light or heavy, but well-draining. Water on a regular schedule, do not overwater. The denser plant population competes more effectively with weeds in the row. In addition, the thicker planting makes harvesting easier since plants are bunched in the field. Cilantro can be started in the greenhouse and transplanted into the field. Cilantro grows best under cool conditions while hot weather encourages it to flower. Cilantro will withstand temperatures as low as 10 degrees, which makes it an excellent fall crop.
Cilantro is ready to be harvested as soon as the plant is 4 – 6 inches tall, which can take 40 to 60 days after planting. If the older, outside leaves are harvested, the plant will continue to produce new foliage until it goes to seed. The plant can
regrow for a second cutting; however, it does not regrow as efficiently as parsley. For that reason many growers just harvest it once. Cilantro can also be harvested by pulling out the whole plant.

Perennial crocosmias range from the bright canary yellows to the flashy tomato reds. Plant them bursting out of a group of quieter colours or in a subtropical border packed with hothouse colours. Although Crocosmia are half hardy bulbs they are usually grown as annuals by gardeners. they have leaves that look like swords, these carry inflorescences that have red or orange funnel like flowers. Crocosmia comes into bloom in the summer months. Common names for Crocosmia include Montbretia and copper top. They make ideal border plants.
The name ‘Crocosmia’ originats from a combination - crocosmia from the Greek krokos, meaning saffron, and osme meaning smell, alluding to the saffron scent given off by the dried flowers when placed in water. The alternate name ‘Montbretia’ got its name from Antoine François Ernest Conquebert de Monbret who was the botanist that accompanied Napoleon on his Egypt campaign in 1798.
The foliage reaches about 3 feet in height. The flowers, borne on stems up to 2 feet long, bloom for a long time. Typically, the flower stems branch and curve slightly, bearing two rows of buds. You can tell they are related to the gladiola.
It is perhaps easiest to grow Crocosmia from corms; If you go with corms, set them in the ground 2 to 3 inches deep and 8 to 10 inches apart. The corms are best planted in the fall for blooms the following spring.
If growing from seeds then they should be sown in the spring, just cover the seeds with topsoil. Plants seeds in seed trays, about 1/4″ deep, in seed starting soil.
They grow best in full sun. Plant in in rich, loose garden soil. If the soil is heavy or doesn’t drain well, mix in a generous amount of sand. Plant corms four to five inches deep, and four inches apart. Water if the soil is dry; and avoid keeping the soil wet, keeping it moist is a better bet. Once established, crocosmias require only the minimum of care, but in cold areas it’s worth covering plants with a deep mulch of well-rotted compost or straw in winter. If the plants are being planted into containers, put them in big pots with big drainage holes, and keep them well-watered. However, if the soil is water-logged, the roots will rot.
Plants that aren’t flowering freely can be divided in the spring. Split them into small clusters and replant in soil enriched with compost, and give a sprinkling of general fertiliser.

Coreopsis is a member of the Aster family. This plant is also called “Tickseed” or “Calliopsis”. Most varieties are perennials, with some annual varieties. They are natives of plains in the U.S. Coreopsis are sunny flower border work horses. They are great additions to any garden design, blooming most of the summer. Coreopsis make great garden edging as well as nice cut flowers. Coreopsis produces daisy like flowers. Flowers grow on sturdy stalks that grow from 1 1/2′ to 4′ tall. Brilliant colors include yellow, gold, red, maroon, or a combination of these colors.
The annual Coreopsis is C. tinctoria and in a full sun garden it can reach three to four feet in height. Easily grown as a hardy annual (you can sow it outside) this showy yellow and dark red daisy puts on quite a flower display. The drought-tolerant nature of the Coreopsis makes it a great plant for container gardens, xeriscaping or near the road or mailbox where it won’t get watered everyday. Give it a prime spot in the cut flower garden as well.

Zone: Tickseed, or Coreopsis, is hardy in zones 3-8.

Exposure: Full sun Bloom Period/Days to Harvest

Bloom Period/Days to Harvest: Early summer through Fall

Growing from transplantation: Shop for coreopsis plants in the spring in cold regions or year-round in mild climates. Choose healthy-looking plants with signs of new growth in leaf or flower bud. (In early spring you may need to look closely in the pot for the dark stems emerging from the soil.)

Grow Coreopsis from seed: Directly seed them into your flower garden in early spring. Sow seeds early in the season, covering lightly with coarse or sandy soil.

They grow well in average soils. Soil should be well draining. Mix in plenty of compost prior to the first planting. Keep the soil moist until they germinate, about one of two weeks. This versatile plant grows in dry or wet climates. Water only during extended droughts. Plant coreopsis in full sun in well-drained soil. Add a little organic fertilizer to the planting hole. Water weekly throughout the first summer.
Coreopsis will bloom longer if deadheaded. However the profusion of delicate blooms can make deadheading a nightmare. An easier solution is to simply wait until the first flush of bloom wanes and sheer the entire plant back. It will recover quickly. Add a light application of organic fertilizer in spring. Water infrequently once the plant is established - just two or three times during the summer. Dig up your Coreopsis clumps every three years or so to divide in the fall after blooming or in the early spring. The taller varieties will benefit from staking.

Save the Seeds!

Add another element to gardening-and reap the rewards next year.
For many of us, fall signals the end of backyard gardening as temperatures drop and colorful flowers lose their luster.
But for some gardeners, fall marks the exciting start of yet another gardening cycle-saving seeds produced by the plants they nurtured all season
Seeds used to be a very valuable commodity for trading; they were among the important possessions that pioneers brought with them as they headed west. Seed saving is a rewarding legacy we should try to keep alive.
To rekindle this ancient art, however, you may have to change a few of your gardening habits. For instance, you’ll have to stop deadheading your fading flowers late in the season because cutting off the spent blooms usually removes the seedpods.
Also, you shouldn’t plant hybrid varieties of flowers. Seeds from hybrid plants won’t produce the exact same plant. Instead, in a sort of genetic grab-bag effect, the seeds will produce plants with a wild mix of traits from the parent plants.
Moreover, don’t save seeds if you planted different-colored blooms of the same variety in one area (like a bed of various-colored geraniums). After a few seasons of saving seeds from those flowers, they’ll eventually produce plants with unattractive, muddy-colored blooms, thanks to cross-pollination.
“This will happen even if, for example, you save just the seeds from lavender-colored blooms in a bed of multicolored zinnias,” Jan notes. Eventually, you’ll have plant varieties with the same-colored blooms.
One other thing to consider: If you have more than one variety of the same flower in your yard, don’t expect to save the seeds and grow the exact same plants next year. The varieties will likely cross-pollinate each other. Even if you grow only one variety of, say, petunias, a different variety grown by a neighbor could still cross-pollinate with yours. Be alert!

Handpick Your Favorites
From which plants should you harvest seeds? Select plants whose characteristics you like—maybe some bloom early, are more resistant to disease, have longer-lasting blooms or bloom later in the season.
Almost all flowers produce seedpods after their flowers fade. The pods usually form at the base of the flower.
Flowers disperse these seeds in a variety of ways. Some flowers such as California poppies and pansies have seedpods that burst open. Others, like dandelions, have little “umbrellas” that float away in the wind. Plants in the allium family simply open their seed pockets and let the wind shake out the seeds. Read gardening books and pay attention to your flowers to learn what method they use.
When harvesting seeds, be certain they’re fully mature. Each variety is different, so watch the pods closely. Usually, they’ll become brown and brittle as the seeds reach maturity.
But this isn’t always true. In varieties with seedpods that spring open, collect the seeds just before the pods burst. The seeds may seem immature, but they’ll continue to mature after harvesting.

Dry your seeds completely by spreading them on a piece of newspaper for a day or two. Keep the newspaper out of direct sun and in a spot protected from breezes and drafts that could scatter the seeds. For pods that burst, cover with another piece of newspaper so the seeds don’t fly all over the room.

Because a seed’s biggest enemies are moisture and heat, store them in a cool dry place such as a refrigerator or a well-ventilated basement. Keep the seeds in something airtight, like a small canning jar or plastic container. Plastic film canisters work great and don’t take up much room.