If your garden needs a riot of colours, growing the flower known as Hollyhocks may just be the best option. With its white, pink, cream, yellow, red and purple flowers, the hollyhock is a visual delight wherever it is planted — at a key position by the front door, the garden gate or back of borders. Hollyhock produces tall and showy, heart shaped blooms. Some varieties will grow 8-10 feet tall. Single or double blooms come in white, yellow, crimson, pink, purple, rose, and red.
Hollyhocks come in a number of different varieties, and each variety will have different features including height, longevity, and color. Depending upon the variety, hollyhocks can either be annuals, biennials or perennials, although the perennial versions can sometimes be fairly short lived compared to other perennials. Hollyhocks tend to reseed themselves and if let go can develop into hollyhock patches over time. Botanically, there are two plants listed as Hollyhock. The first is the Althaea – better known as Mallow while the plant more commonly known as a Hollyhock is an Alcea. The tall showy ones are Alcea. Althaea are shorter.
Originating in the Mediterranean and Western Asia, Hollyhocks have been grown in the west since the mid 1500’s. Reaching upto 6-8 feet ( 60-250cm) in height, Hollyhocks are used in many cut flower gardens and borders, forming an integral part of these gardens. The plants can spread to 24” ( 40-60cm) with large rough leaves that feel slightly prickly to the touch. The large, inviting blossoms are held up in large spikes.
Full sun and fertile soil will do nicely for this plant. The plant may have trouble with clay soils if those soils are wet during the winter. Hollyhocks do best in moist, well-drained areas. They prefer a rich soil with abundant organic matter and in rural areas often bloom profusely in old, moist manure piles. Add fertilizer as needed in early spring to help the plants flourish. The plants are hardy form Zone 3 thru 8. They also are heat tolerant and bloom during the hottest part of the summer. Plant them where they are in full sun, as the plant dislikes shade of any kind.
As biennials, they will not usually flower the first year from seed. They need to grow that first year, survive the winter and then send up those huge flower stalks the second year. Unfortunately, the mother plants then die after flowering is finished, although this does not always happen and many plants continue to thrive.
The easiest way to establish hollyhocks is from seeds. All of the old-fashioned varieties produce viable seed that you can collect in the fall and plant in your garden or share with friends. Seeds germinate in 2-3 weeks at 60°F.
Try spring sowing or plant in August to produce flowering plants next year. If you have the right growing area, start seeds started indoors as bedding plants for bloom the following summer. Add a general purpose fertilizer once a month. Keep soil moist, especially in dry weather.
Early in the season, pinch back the plants to promote bushier growth. But, allow plenty of air circulation to minimize the risk of plant disease. After the plants have bloomed, simply cut off the flower stalks (after the seed pods have gone brown and are splitting open). Then crush the pods to separate the seeds out and scatter them throughout the garden for next year’s blooms.
Hollyhocks must establish a root system first, and then they can produce the stalk(s) of flowers you love so much. Often they are planted in the fall to give them a chance to establish a system during the winter months. While other plants are loafing and going into dormancy, the hollyhock foliage is still green! When spring arrives, your fall planted babies will burst into growing and produce blooms that summer. This is why most people plant them in the fall, but it is not a must. It is vital that you keep your baby hocks watered regularly to ensure a strong and healthy root system to carry it through the winter cold.

Most articles that you about how to plant specific plants do not fail to mention as to what should be the spacing between plants. The spacing between plants is important as it helps in deciding the overall growth of the plants; too little space and they end up competing for the same nutrients, for soil, and even for sunlight. In such cases, the growth can be severely limited, and you may be disappointed in the end with the plants that finally emerge.
Now, combine this with the advantages of growing multiple plants together (if done with good planning and knowledge, you can reduce the competition between plants, with some plants maybe depending more on the nutrients from soil and others less, and in excellent cases, some plants replenishing nutrients in soil that other plants have extracted). The question that emerges is what should be the spacing between plants when you have different plants.
This site (link) attempts to explain this, and even provide an online calculator to explain in more detail:

Mixed planting, or companion planting, can offer benefits over monocultures:
o Mixed crops often have higher yields than monocultures because different species use different resources, making more efficient use of land.1
o Mixed plantings often have fewer pest problems than monocultures because pests have a harder time finding suitable hosts, or because diverse plantings provide better habitat for natural enemies.
Although mixed plantings are common, practical resources for those who grow mixed crops are few; production guides and extension materials are often based on the assumption of monoculture.

So, it is actually a recommendation that if you have a kitchen garden where you grow plants and fruits for your own use, then consider the option of mixed planting, and if you that, do refer to the linked article.

This information again came via email, and is pretty useful, hence posting

Plant Guide

ALFALFA: Perennial that roots deeply. Fixes the soil with nitrogen, accumulates iron, magnesium, phosphorous and potassium. Withstands droughts with it’s long taproot and can improve just about any soil! Alfalfa has the ability to break up hard clay soil and can even send its’ roots through rocks! Now that is a tenacious plant! Alfalfa is practically pest and disease free. It needs only natural rainfall to survive.

AMARANTH: A tropical annual that needs hot conditions to flourish. Good with sweet corn, it’s leaves provide shade giving the corm a rich, moist root run. Host to predatory ground beetles. Eat the young leaves in salads.

ANISE: Licorice flavored herb, good host for predatory wasps which prey on aphids and it is also said to repel aphids. Deters pests from brassicas by camouflaging their odor. Improves the vigor of any plants growing near it. Used in ointments to protect against bug stings and bites. Good to plant with coriander.

ARTEMISIAS: See Wormwood

BASIL: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Basil can be helpful in repelling thrips. Said to repel flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue.

BAY LEAF: A fresh leaf bay leaf in each storage container of beans or grains will deter weevils and moths. Sprinkle dried leaves with other deterrent herbs in garden as natural insecticide dust. A good combo: Bay leaves, cayenne pepper, tansy and peppermint.

BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed form the air. In general they are good company for carrots, brassicas, beets, and cucumbers. Great for heavy nitrogen users like corn and grain plants. French Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo. Keep beans away from the alliums.

BEE BALM (Oswego, Monarda): Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Great for attracting beneficials and bees of course. Pretty perennial that tends to get powdery mildew.

BEET: Good for adding minerals to the soil. The leaves are composed of 25% magnesium. Companions are lettuce, onions and brassicas.

BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash and strawberries. Deters tomato hornworms and cabbage worms. One of the best bee and wasp attracting plants. Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good addition the compost pile. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to via increasing resistance to pests and disease. After you have planned this annual once it will self seed.

BRASSICA: Benefit from chamomile, peppermint, dill, sage, and rosemary. They need rich soil with plenty of lime to flourish.

BUCKWHEAT: Accumulates calcium and can be grown as an excellent cover crop. Attracts hoverflies in droves. (Member of the brassica family.)

CARAWAY: Good for loosening compacted soil with it’s deep roots. Tricky to establish. The flowers attract a number of beneficial insects.

CATNIP: Deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants and weevils. We have found it repels mice quite well: mice were wreaking havoc in our outbuildings, we spread sprigs of mint throughout and the mice split! Use sprigs of mint anywhere in the house you want deter mice and ants. Smells good and very safe.

CHAMOMILE, GERMAN: Annual. Improves flavor of cabbages, cucumbers and onions. Host to hoverflies and wasps. Accumulates calcium, potassium and sulfur, later returning them to the soil. Increases oil production from herbs. Leave some flowers unpicked and German chamomile will reseed itself. Roman chamomile is a low growing perennial that will tolerate almost any soil conditions. Both like full sun. Growing chamomile of any type is considered a tonic for anything you grow in the garden.

CHERVIL: Companion to radishes for improved growth and flavor. Keeps aphids off lettuce. Likes shade.

CHIVES: Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes . Chives may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly. Planted among apple trees it may help prevent scab. A tea of chives may be used on cucumbers to prevent downy mildew. See chive tea on disease page.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS: C. coccineum kills root nematodes. (the bad ones) It’s flowers along with those of C. cineraruaefolium have been used as botanical pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum) White flowering chrysanthemums repel Japanese beetles.

CLOVER: Long used as a green manure and plant companion. Attracts many beneficials. Useful planted around apple trees to attract predators of the woolly aphid.

COMFREY: Accumulates calcium, phosphorous and potassium. Likes wet spots to grow in. Traditional medicinal plant. Good trap crop for slugs. More on comfrey.

CORIANDER: Repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle. A tea from this can be used as a spray for spider mites. A partner for anise.

COSTMARY: This 2-3 foot tall perennial of the chrysanthemum family helps to repel moths.

DAHLIAS: These beautiful, tuberous annuals that can have up to dinner plate size flowers repels nematodes!

DILL: Improves growth and health of cabbage. Do not plant near carrots. Best friend for lettuce. Attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps. Repels aphids and spider mites to some degree. Also may repel the dreaded squash bug! (scatter some good size dill leaves on plants that are suspect to squash bugs, like squash plants, yeah that’s the ticket.) Dill goes well with onions and cucumbers. Dill does attract the tomato horn worm so it would be useful to plant it somewhere away from your tomato plants to keep the destructive horn worm away from them. We like to plant it for the swallowtail butterfly caterpillars to feed on. Even their caterpillars are beautiful.

ELDERBERRY: A spray (see insect treatments) made from the leaves can be used against aphids, carrot root fly, cuke beetles and peach tree borers. Put branches and leaves in mole runs to banish them. Yes, it works!

FLAX: Plant with carrots, and potatoes. Flax contains tannin and linseed oils which may offend the Colorado potato bug. Flax is an annual from 1-4 feet tall with blue or white flowers that readily self sows. We have quite a few flax plants return year after year here in zone 5.

FOUR-O’CLOCKS: Draw Japanese beetles like a magnet which then dine on the foliage. The foliage is pure poison to them and they won’t live to have dessert! It is important to mention that four-o”clocks are also poisonous to humans. Please be careful where you plant them if you have children. They are a beautiful annual plant growing from 2-3 feet high with a bushy growth form.

GARLIC: Plant near roses to repel aphids. Accumulates sulfur: a naturally occurring fungicide which will help in the garden. Has some value in offending codling moths, Japanese beetles, root maggots, snails, and carrot root fly. Researchers have observed that time-released garlic capsules planted at the bases of fruit trees actually kept deer away! Hey, worth a try! (see treatments: Garlic-oil spray)

GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.

HORSERADISH: Plant in containers in the potato patch to keep away Colorado potato bugs. There are some very effective insect sprays that can be made with the root. Use the bottomless pot method to keep horseradish contained. Also repels Blister beetles. We have observed that the root can yield antifungal properties when a tea is made from it. (See: Horseradish: Disease)

HOREHOUND: Stimulates and aids fruiting in tomatoes.

HYSSOP: Companion plant to cabbage and grapes, deters cabbage moths and flea beetles. Do not plant near radishes. Hyssop may be the number one preference among bees and some beekeepers rub the hive with it to encourage the bees to keep to their home. It is not as invasive as other members of the mint family making it safer for interplanting.

KELP: When used in a powder mixture or tea as a spray, this versatile sea herb will not only repel insects but feed the vegetables. In particular we have observed that kelp foliar sprays keep aphids and Japanese beetles away when used as a spray every 8 days before and during infestation times. If you have access to seaweed, use it as a mulch to keep slugs away.

LARKSPUR: An annual member of the Delphinium family, larkspur will attract Japanese beetles. They dine and die! Larkspur is poisonous to humans too!

LAVENDER: Repels fleas and moths. Prolific flowering lavender nourishes many nectar feeding and beneficial insects. Use dried sprigs of lavender to repel moths. Start plants in winter from cuttings, setting out in spring.

LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture to deter many bugs. Lemon balm has citronella compounds that make this work: crush and rub the leaves on your skin to keep mosquitoes away! Use to ward off squash bugs!

LOVAGE: Improves flavor and health of most plants. Good habitat for ground beetles. A large plant, use one planted as a backdrop. Similar to celery in flavor.

MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit as a pest deterrent. Keeps soil free of bad nematodes; supposed to discourage many insects. Plant freely throughout the garden. The marigolds you choose must be a scented variety for them to work. One down side is that marigolds do attract spider mites and slugs.

French Marigold (T. Patula) has roots that exude a substance which spreads in their immediate vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode control you want to plant dense areas of them. There have been some studies done that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for several years after the plants were These marigolds also help to deter whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be used in greenhouses for the same purpose.

Mexican marigold (T. minuta) is the most powerful of the insect repelling marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such as bind weed! It is said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild bunnies! Be careful it can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans and cabbage.

MARJORAM: As a companion plant it improves the flavor of vegetables and herbs. Sweet marjoram is the most commonly grown type.

MINT: Deters white cabbage moths, ants, rodents, flea beetles, fleas, aphids and improves the health of cabbage and tomatoes. Use cuttings as a mulch around members of the brassica family. It attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps. Earthworms are quite attracted to mint plantings. Be careful where you plant it as mint is an incredibly invasive perennial. We have found that placing mint (fresh or dried) where mice are a problem is very effective in driving them off!

MOLE PLANTS: (castor bean plant) Deter moles and mice if planted here and there throughout the garden. Drop a seed of this in mole runs to drive them away. This is a poisonous plant. See Moles: Critter Trouble

MORNING GLORIES: They attract hoverflies. Plus if you want a fast growing annual vine to cover something up morning glory is an excellent choice.

OPAL BASIL: An annual herb that is pretty, tasty and said to repel hornworms!

NASTURTIUMS: Plant as a barrier around tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Deters wooly aphids, whiteflies, squash bug, cucumber beetles and other pests of the curcurbit family. Great trap crop for aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it does attract, especially the yellow flowering varieties. Likes poor soil with low moisture and no fertilizer. It has been the practice of some fruit growers that planting nasturtiums every year in the root zone of fruit trees allow the trees to take up the pungent odor of the plants and repel bugs. It has no taste effect on the fruit. A nice variety to grow is Alaska which has attractive green and white variegated leaves. The leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible and wonderful in salads! Try our recipe for: Nasturtium Salad

NETTLES, STINGING: The flowers attract bees. Sprays made from these are rich in silica and calcium. Invigorating for plants and improves their disease resistance. Leaving the mixture to rot, it then makes an excellent liquid feed. Comfrey improves the liquid feed even more. Hairs on the nettles’ leaves contain formic acid which “stings” you.

PARSLEY: Plant among and sprinkle on tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as a tea to ward off asparagus beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some go to seed to attract the tiny parasitic wasps. Parsley increases the fragrance of roses when planted around their base. Rose problems? See: Rose

PEPPERMINT: Repels white cabbage moths, aphids and flea beetles. It is the menthol content in mints that acts as an insect repellant. Bees and other good guys love it.

PEPPERS, HOT: Chili peppers have root exudates that prevent root rot and other Fusarium diseases. Plant anywhere you have these problems. Teas made from hot peppers can be useful as insect sprays.

PENNYROYAL: Repels fleas. Many people are now using pennyroyal as an alternative lawn. The leaves when crushed and rubbed onto your skin will repel chiggers, flies, gnats, mosquitoes and ticks. Smells nice too!

PETUNIAS: They repel the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, certain aphids, tomato worms, Mexican bean beetles and general garden pests. A good companion to tomatoes, but plant everywhere. The leaves can be used in a tea to make a potent bug spray.

PURSLANE: This edible weed makes good ground cover in the corn patch. Use the stems, leaves and seeds in stir-frys. Pickle the green seed pod for caper substitutes.

RADISH: Plant radishes with your squash plants. Radishes may protect them from squash borers! Anything that will help prevent this is worth a try. Planting them around corn and letting them go to seed will help fight corn borers.

ROSEMARY: Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies. Use cuttings to place by the crowns of carrots for carrot flies. Zones 6 and colder can overwinter rosemary as houseplants or take cuttings.

RUE: Deters Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries. To make it even more effective with Japanese beetles: crush a few leaves to release the smell. Repels flies and has helped repel cats for us. Some say you should not plant it near cabbage, basil or sage. A pretty perennial with bluish-gray leaves. May be grown indoors in a sunny window. Rue can cause skin irritation! Remedy: See cats and dogs: Rue spray.

SAGE: Use as a companion plant with broccoli, cauliflower, rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, black flea beetles and carrot flies. Do not plant near cucumbers or rue. Sage repels cabbage moths and black flea beetles. Allowing sage to flower will also attract many beneficial insects and the flowers are pretty. There are some very striking varieties of sage with variegated foliage that can be used for their ornamental as well as practical qualities. More on sage.

SOUTHERNWOOD: Plant with cabbage, and here and there in the garden. Wonderful lemony scent when crushed or brushed in passing. Roots easily from cuttings. Does not like fertilizer! It is a perennial that can get quite bushy. We have started to cut it back every spring and it comes back in not time. A delightful plant that is virtually pest free.

SUMMER SAVORY: Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and flavor. Discourages cabbage moths. Honey bees love it.

SUNFLOWERS: Planting sunflowers with corn is said by some to increase the yield. Aphids a problem? Definitely plant a few sunflowers here and there in the garden. Step back and watch the ants herd the aphids onto them! We have been doing this for years and it is remarkable. The sunflowers are so tough that the aphids cause very little damage and we have nice seed heads for our birds to enjoy! Talk about a symbiotic relationship!

TANSY: Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries keeping in mind that it can be invasive and is not the most attractive of plants. Tansy which is often recommended as an ant repellant may only work on sugar type ants. These are the ones that you see on peonies and marching into the kitchen. At least for us placing tansy clippings by the greenhouse door has kept them out. Deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs, ants and mice! Tie up and hang a bunch of tansy leaves indoors as a fly repellent. Use clippings as a mulch as needed. Don’t be afraid to cut the plant up as tansy will bounce back from any abuse heaped on it! It is also a helpful addition to the compost pile with its’ high potassium content.

TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one. Recommended to enhance growth and flavor of vegetables.

THYME: Deters cabbage worms. Wooly thyme makes a wonderful groundcover. You may want to use the upright form of thyme in the garden rather than the groundcover types. Thyme is easy to grow from seeds or cuttings. Older woody plants should be divided in spring.

WHITE GERANIUMS: These members of the pelargonum family draw Japanese beetles to feast on the foliage which in turn kills them.

WORMWOOD: Keeps animals out of the garden when planted as a border. An excellent deterrent to most insects. A tea made from wormwood will repel cabbage moths, slugs, snails, black flea beetles and fleas effectively. The two best varieties for making insect spray are Silver King and Powis Castle. Adversely Powis castle attracts ladybugs which in turn breed directly on the plant. Silver Mound is great as a border plant and the most toxic wormwood. Note: As wormwood actually produces a botanical poison do not use it directly on food crops. We personally have seen no evidence of artemisias suppressing the growth of plants other than seedlings though many say it does.

YARROW: Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an excellent natural fertilizer. A handful of yarrow leaves added to the compost pile really speeds things up. Try it! It also attracts predatory wasps and ladybugs to name just two. It may increase the essential oil content of herbs when planted among them.

If you are infected with ants in your plants, then you have a serious problem. This is the link of a commercial site that will help in this regard. This site has descriptions and recommendations for control of the more common household ants such as the the: Argentiine Ants Carpenter Ants, Red Fire Ants, Ghost Ants, Odorous House Ants , Pavement Ants and Leaf Cutter Ants.
You will also find links to other entomology sites concerned with ants and a handy link to determine the difference between the termite or the ant.

Unless you can treat the nest directly, spraying is not an effective solution for small ants, unless you use a nonrepellent insecticides or “undetectable” liquid treatments such as Dominion 2L, Termidor or Phantom. Unlike older insecticides, nonrepellent insecticides can’t be smelled, tasted, or even felt by pests. So they crawl through the treated area, not knowing that by ingesting treated materials or merely contacting the insecticide, they’ll die.

If you are an avid gardener, then you would really be wanting to expand the variety of your garden. As a part of that, exchanging plants with other people is an essential and cheap way to expand your collection (rather than actually buying seeds or plants). One important aspect of this is to learn how to ship plants such that they can survive the journey. You would also need this ability if you are changing your home address. Here is a site that shows you how to do this in a simple and inexpensive way:

If you have your own boxes, use a sturdy cardboard box, never anything like a cereal box, it’s not strong enough. Keep in mind that the “Priority Mail” boxes often times weigh less than other boxes of the same size you may get from another source, and every ounce counts.
Do NOT mark the box “fragile” or give any other type of indication that special care is needed. It’s sad to say but it will call attention to your box and someone may damage it just because it says something like that.
It’s best if you can have tags ready to put in the ground for the person receiving the plants along with something like “full sun” or “partial shade” etc. The most economical method is to use window blinds, cut them up to desired length, people often throw out or offer free at garage sales, double the supply by cutting them in half lengthwise. Use a paint pen to write on the tag.
Be as gentle with the root system as possible. If possible, water them well 4-6 hours before you’re going to dig. When you dig, do so a few inches a way from the main stem so you aren’t cutting the roots up.

Bookmark this article, and read it thoroughly. It is a well illustrated article, with plenty of photos, a Do it Yourself kind of post.

Thought to originate in Syria, borage is now naturalized throughout most of Europe and the United States. It flourishes as a weed near houses and on rubbish heaps. While many modern gardeners consider it a nuisance, it was traditionally grown in gardens to use as an herb, for its edible flowers, and for its ability to increase the yields of honey.

The plant is easily recognized by its white prickly hairs and its bright blue star-shaped flowers. It grows to about 1-2 ft high, with many hollow, almost succulent branching stems. The ovate to lanceolate leaves are 3 inch long and 1-1/2 inch wide, growing in an alternate pattern up the stems. The lower leaves are stalked, with stiff one-celled hairs on the upper surface as well as on the veins below. The deep green leaves have sinuous, wavy margins. The inch-wide bright blue star-shaped flowers have prominent black anthers forming a cone in the center. The fruits consist of brownish-black nutlets in groups of four.

Borage does well in ordinary soil. It can be propagated by division of rootstocks, however, it is easily grown from seed, which it does quite successfully on its own year after year. The seeds often grow in the same place.

I was told by a friend about these, and was recommended them as beautiful plants, an asset to any garden. I was intrigued and started hunting for some information on these, and landed up at the following web site that presents more information. Click here.

A brief extract on what these are:
“The plant family Crassulaceae is the third largest of Families containing exclusively succulent plants.
It includes such popular and well known genera as: Aeonium, Cotyledon, Crassula, Dudleya, Echeveria, Graptopetalum, Kalanchoe, Pachyphytum, Sedum, and Sempervivum.
Few plants of any kind can match the exquisite form and beautiful colors of the Crassulaceae. Many of the species and hybrids we offer on our online catalog have all but vanished from the trade but they live on here. They have indeed become quite hard to find. If you share our enthusiasm for this group, rest assured we are your source for many years to come.”

Question: Many times houseplants thrive for three or four months, then start declining, and eventually die, even though they get water and are fertilized regularly. Need some advice.

Answer: Some general guidelines. Different houseplants will require different amounts of light, water, etc.

- Read the plant label, check with nursery staff, or consult a reference for more specific information.

- Watering: Houseplants tend to be very particular. One of the most common problems is overwatering. Plants in small containers in bright light may need watering daily or every other day, while plants in large pots in low light may need watering once every two or three weeks. For most plants, the key is to water thoroughly, letting excess water drain off, then wait until the soil dries out somewhat before watering again.

- Light exposure: Plant are adapted to different light levels, so choose plants that fit your conditions. Don’t try to grow a sun-loving plant in a dark corner!

- Fertilizer: Don’t overdo it. Generally, houseplants do most of their growth between March and August, so fertilize regularly during spring and summer. Cut back or eliminate fertilizer in the fall and winter months.

Finally, remember also that almost all houseplants hate drafts–hot or cold–so keep them away from doorways and heating and air conditioning vents. And give them lots of love and see how they grow.

Brunnera, or Siberian Bugloss, are from western Siberia. These plants are perennial forget-me-nots, named in honor of Swiss botanist Samuel Brunner. Some catalogs still call this species Anchusa myosotidiflora, its previous name. Showy blue flowers about 1/4-inch across bloom in clusters during spring. The leaves are large and heart-shaped on slightly hairy stems. Valued for its airy, beautiful true-blue flowers over heart-shaped foliage. Plants can reach 2 feet in height but usually grow about 18 inches tall. Where summers are cool, leaves grow larger.
Brunnera is an ideal plant to choose if you’re looking for something a little more unusual for the spring garden. Throughout April and May, ‘Jack Frost’ is covered with lots of small, bright blue flowers which look rather like forget-me-nots. These are complemented by the beautiful heart-shaped foliage which is a pale silver-grey with pronounced dark green veins. It looks particularly striking planted in drifts in the woodland garden.
Largeleaf brunnera will grow best in partial shade in moist, well-drained, organic-rich soil. In southern zones, dense shade and moist soils are necessary while in northern zones, it will grow well with morning sun. They will, however, do reasonably well in a dry spot if they have shade. Generally this plant requires little care.
Divide plants when the center of the clump starts to deteriorate. Propagated through seed, root cuttings or division. Readily self sows once established. No serious insect or disease problems.

Many gesneriads bloom throughout the year, an especially welcome sight on a cold winter day. Whatever is a gesneriad? Almost all individual plants belong to larger plant families. In the case of the African violet whose botanical name is Saintpaulia, the larger family is the “Gesneriads” or Gesneriaceae in botanical Latin. Sometimes the relationship is made obvious by readily apparent similarities in the plant. For example, the Florist’s Gloxinia (properly called Sinningia speciosa) is also a gesneriad and bears a substantial outward resemblance to the African violet. There are many more and this outward resemblance is often not nearly so obvious. Most species are perennial herbs or subshrubs but a few are woody shrubs or small trees.
Some of the characteristics that help to determine whether or not a plant should belong to this family:
(1) The calyces are made up of four or five green or coloured, leaf-like parts called sepals. The sepals are separate; but sometimes they are united forming a cup or a tube.
(2) Inside the calyx is the corolla that is made up of five petals, or occasionally four, which are joined at the base forming a tube. The tube can be flat (as seen in Saintpaulia), elongated (as seen in Sinningia), or it can be two-lipped, consisting of upper and lower lobes of different sizes (as seen in Columnea).
(3) The ovaries are unicelled, enclosing a large number of ovules. It develops into a seedpod or a berry that contains tiny seeds.
(4) Normally there are two to four stamens in the flower, either fused in pairs or in a circle. There is a single pistil.
(5) The leaves are opposite and almost always simple and they may be in whorls of three or more at the same node. Sometimes the opposite leaves may be of unequal size as is well demonstrated in the genus Dalbergaria. The leaves may be green, variegated or they may be patterned with red or metallic hues, the latter is well demonstrated in the genus Episcia.
(6) Gesneriads may be herbs, shrubs, vines and even small trees. Most are terrestrial, but some like orchids, are epiphytes, which grow in the crutches of trees. In their natural habitat, gesneriads will be found growing in conditions ranging from mottled shade to full sun.
(7) The roots are fibrous, arising from the base of the aerial stem. Underground storage structures called rhizomes and tubers are sometimes produced.
The Gesneriaceae are widely distributed throughout the tropics of the world, with a number of species growing in temperate climates, especially at high altitudes in mountainous regions of Asia, Europe and South America. Among the more common varieties, Saintpaulia (African Violets) come from east Africa, especially Tanzania and Kenya. The Lipstick Plants (Aeschynanthus) are native to the Malaysian archipelago and nearby locations in south Asia. Sinningia species, including the Florist Gloxinia, come from Brazil, as does the Goldfish Plant (Nematanthus). The only Gesneriads growing in Europe are some species of Ramonda, semi-hardy alpines from the mountains in the south. These can be grown outside as far north as Scotland. A few relatively obscure species grow in Australia and New Zealand.
Some of the gesneriads grow naturally in moderately moist and shady conditions, with steady warmth. They are often comfortable in typical household conditions, and are good candidates for the new grower. Others grow at high altitudes, in the constant presence of cool mists, and require more specialized and constantly moist conditions. Still others grow on rocky slopes or cliffs, or high up in the rainforest canopy in small deposits of moss or leaf mold. They are adapted to occasional drought, and a grower must take care not to overwater.
This is a plant family of great diversity, and many grow under the same conditions we enjoy. Many of the easiest and most beautiful plants for the home or greenhouse belong to the gesneriad family. Some gesneriads go dormant for a short period of time. These are either tuberous or rhizomatous gesneriads.
Growing conditions:
(A) Columnea requires temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit and bright reflected light. Keep the soil moist at all times, and provide humidity by placing the plant on a gravel-filled saucer (a humidity tray) or keeping it in a humid room such as a bathroom or the kitchen. These moisture-loving plants also appreciate a daily misting.
(B) The genus Episcia, or flame violet, includes six species of creeping evergreen tender perennials. Provide rich, fast-draining soil and plenty of humidity.
(C) Streptocarpus, or Cape primrose, requires care similar to that for the African violet but prefers more light and cooler temperatures (70 to 75 degrees).
Streptocarpus will grow happily in potting mix designed for African violets. Provide filtered bright light and a humidity tray. Don’t mist Streptocarpus. To encourage bloom, provide a high-phosphorus liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength every two weeks.
(D) Streptocarpella is a subgenus of Streptocarpus and requires the same care but blooms more profusely.
(E) African violets (Saintpaulia) require a south-facing exposure without direct sun. Repot annually, using a soilless mix designed for Saintpaulia; apply an African violet fertilizer regularly, according to package directions. These plants appreciate the use of a humidity tray. Cold water causes leaf spots, so if you’re watering from the top, make sure the water is warm.
(F) Sinningia grows from tubers and requires only moderate amounts of water until the roots are established. Keep the soil damp during the growing season, irrigating with tepid water. Sinningia requires bright reflected or filtered light and cool temperatures (60 degrees). Apply a high-phosphorus fertilizer once a month from the end of the plant’s flowering period until the foliage dies down.
(G) Gloxinia are now included in the genus Sinningia; they require the same care.
Provide bright light: an east- or northeast-facing window works well. Fluorescent lighting is beneficial too. If you use fluorescent bulbs, keep plants 6″ to 8″ from the fixture for 14 hours a day.

A great article that provides information is available at this link.