Rosemary is one of those wonderful herbs that makes a beautiful ornamental plant as well as a welcome culinary seasoning. Its Latin name, Rosmarinus officinalis, means “dew of the sea” and rosemary is most closely associated with the cooking of the Mediterranean area. Dependent on the variety, it has small, profuse flowers appearing in late spring which range from dark blue through pale blue right down to white.
This aromatic evergreen is an indispensable kitchen herb, it’s used as an ornamental element in the garden, and it is used in aromatherapy. Rosemary is a member of the Labiatae or mint family. Its blue-green, needlelike foliage and compelling fragrance make this tender perennial a must in any garden. Another great advantage of rosemary is that it is a perennial and will last for twenty years or more with only minimal pruning once a year. Rosemary is a good choice if you want shrubs that are able to withstand droughts well. It will survive a severe lack of water for lengthy periods of time.
You don’t need perfect sunshine, sea mist or even a never ending summer to successfully grow rosemary. In fact, more rosemary plants suffer from too much attention than from too little. Growing rosemary indoors in the winter can be a challenge. It is easy to nurture and care for indoor rosemary too much. Excess water will damage the roots and cause the plant to die, so I let the soil dry, then water thoroughly.
Rosemary prefers a light soil, a sandy soil will fully satisfy its meagre feeding needs. Having said that, rosemary is tolerant of most soil conditions as long as they are not water-logged. Rosemary prefers a slightly limey soil (the opposite of acid) because this results in smaller plants with more fragrant leaves. True to it’s origins, rosemary prefers sunny and sheltered conditions. It will stand severe frosts if conditions are not windy and wet as well. If you live in subzero winter temperatures, grow your rosemary in containers so you can move the plants to a cool, sunny room in the winter. If you live in a warm climate, don’t leave your rosemary near a hot window.
Start with plants grown from cuttings, since rosemary often is hard to grow from seed. Propagating Rosemary by cutting requires about an 8cm cutting be taken from new growth in late spring (cut just below a leaf joint). Place the cutting in a small pot filled with potting compost. Stand the pot in water to enable the compost to draw water up. Once the compost is moist place the pot under glass of some kind (I.e. a windowsill propagator or clear plastic bottle) to retain heat. The cutting should develop roots and be ready for transplanting about 2 months after the cutting.
Grow in sandy soil with pH level of 7-8. Pinch the tips to direct growth. Once you have a well-established plant, increase your supply by taking cuttings. Don’t take more than 20 percent of the plant, however. Check container-grown plants twice a year and shift to larger containers when roots become crowded. Some varieties of rosemary grow as high as six feet.
Getting it off ground level will help to reduce humidity and increase drainage. Also, don’t crowd your Rosemary. With a few exceptions they are large plants and need space. This is especially important if you have humid summers, because it allows air to move more freely around the plant. If your soil is rich in organic matter, you should never need to fertilize. If your Rosemary is already planted and you want to improve the soil, layer compost three to four inches around the base of the plant. If you spray no harmful chemicals and use only organic fertilizers, the critters at ground level and below will take your compost to the plants roots and nourish the plants and the soil.
If transplanting from pot to the outside soil make sure to the base of the plant is at the same depth (the top) of the soil as it was in the pot. Transplant rosemary to their its final position not an intermediate position. A compost tea feed can be applied to the soil every month during the growing soil although Rosemary does not require a rich soil. If growing rosemary in containers then water when the potting soil is about to dry out.
The biggest problem with growing rosemary indoors is its tendency to get powdery mildew. Powdery mildew is a white, powdery fungus that can develop if the surrounding air is humid and there is not enough air movement. Powdery mildew won’t kill your rosemary, but it will weaken the plant. Keep the humidity low by allowing the soil to dry somewhat between waterings, keeping the plant in sunlight and, if necessary, running a fan for a few hours a day to create a breeze.

Many gesneriads bloom throughout the year, an especially welcome sight on a cold winter day. Whatever is a gesneriad? Almost all individual plants belong to larger plant families. In the case of the African violet whose botanical name is Saintpaulia, the larger family is the “Gesneriads” or Gesneriaceae in botanical Latin. Sometimes the relationship is made obvious by readily apparent similarities in the plant. For example, the Florist’s Gloxinia (properly called Sinningia speciosa) is also a gesneriad and bears a substantial outward resemblance to the African violet. There are many more and this outward resemblance is often not nearly so obvious. Most species are perennial herbs or subshrubs but a few are woody shrubs or small trees.
Some of the characteristics that help to determine whether or not a plant should belong to this family:
(1) The calyces are made up of four or five green or coloured, leaf-like parts called sepals. The sepals are separate; but sometimes they are united forming a cup or a tube.
(2) Inside the calyx is the corolla that is made up of five petals, or occasionally four, which are joined at the base forming a tube. The tube can be flat (as seen in Saintpaulia), elongated (as seen in Sinningia), or it can be two-lipped, consisting of upper and lower lobes of different sizes (as seen in Columnea).
(3) The ovaries are unicelled, enclosing a large number of ovules. It develops into a seedpod or a berry that contains tiny seeds.
(4) Normally there are two to four stamens in the flower, either fused in pairs or in a circle. There is a single pistil.
(5) The leaves are opposite and almost always simple and they may be in whorls of three or more at the same node. Sometimes the opposite leaves may be of unequal size as is well demonstrated in the genus Dalbergaria. The leaves may be green, variegated or they may be patterned with red or metallic hues, the latter is well demonstrated in the genus Episcia.
(6) Gesneriads may be herbs, shrubs, vines and even small trees. Most are terrestrial, but some like orchids, are epiphytes, which grow in the crutches of trees. In their natural habitat, gesneriads will be found growing in conditions ranging from mottled shade to full sun.
(7) The roots are fibrous, arising from the base of the aerial stem. Underground storage structures called rhizomes and tubers are sometimes produced.
The Gesneriaceae are widely distributed throughout the tropics of the world, with a number of species growing in temperate climates, especially at high altitudes in mountainous regions of Asia, Europe and South America. Among the more common varieties, Saintpaulia (African Violets) come from east Africa, especially Tanzania and Kenya. The Lipstick Plants (Aeschynanthus) are native to the Malaysian archipelago and nearby locations in south Asia. Sinningia species, including the Florist Gloxinia, come from Brazil, as does the Goldfish Plant (Nematanthus). The only Gesneriads growing in Europe are some species of Ramonda, semi-hardy alpines from the mountains in the south. These can be grown outside as far north as Scotland. A few relatively obscure species grow in Australia and New Zealand.
Some of the gesneriads grow naturally in moderately moist and shady conditions, with steady warmth. They are often comfortable in typical household conditions, and are good candidates for the new grower. Others grow at high altitudes, in the constant presence of cool mists, and require more specialized and constantly moist conditions. Still others grow on rocky slopes or cliffs, or high up in the rainforest canopy in small deposits of moss or leaf mold. They are adapted to occasional drought, and a grower must take care not to overwater.
This is a plant family of great diversity, and many grow under the same conditions we enjoy. Many of the easiest and most beautiful plants for the home or greenhouse belong to the gesneriad family. Some gesneriads go dormant for a short period of time. These are either tuberous or rhizomatous gesneriads.
Growing conditions:
(A) Columnea requires temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit and bright reflected light. Keep the soil moist at all times, and provide humidity by placing the plant on a gravel-filled saucer (a humidity tray) or keeping it in a humid room such as a bathroom or the kitchen. These moisture-loving plants also appreciate a daily misting.
(B) The genus Episcia, or flame violet, includes six species of creeping evergreen tender perennials. Provide rich, fast-draining soil and plenty of humidity.
(C) Streptocarpus, or Cape primrose, requires care similar to that for the African violet but prefers more light and cooler temperatures (70 to 75 degrees).
Streptocarpus will grow happily in potting mix designed for African violets. Provide filtered bright light and a humidity tray. Don’t mist Streptocarpus. To encourage bloom, provide a high-phosphorus liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength every two weeks.
(D) Streptocarpella is a subgenus of Streptocarpus and requires the same care but blooms more profusely.
(E) African violets (Saintpaulia) require a south-facing exposure without direct sun. Repot annually, using a soilless mix designed for Saintpaulia; apply an African violet fertilizer regularly, according to package directions. These plants appreciate the use of a humidity tray. Cold water causes leaf spots, so if you’re watering from the top, make sure the water is warm.
(F) Sinningia grows from tubers and requires only moderate amounts of water until the roots are established. Keep the soil damp during the growing season, irrigating with tepid water. Sinningia requires bright reflected or filtered light and cool temperatures (60 degrees). Apply a high-phosphorus fertilizer once a month from the end of the plant’s flowering period until the foliage dies down.
(G) Gloxinia are now included in the genus Sinningia; they require the same care.
Provide bright light: an east- or northeast-facing window works well. Fluorescent lighting is beneficial too. If you use fluorescent bulbs, keep plants 6″ to 8″ from the fixture for 14 hours a day.

A great article that provides information is available at this link.

Asparagus has long been considered the ultimate gourmet vegetable, thanks to its delicious taste and delicate texture. Asparagus officinalis is a flowering plant species in the genus Asparagus from which the popular vegetable known as asparagus is obtained.
Asparagus is a long-lived perennial vegetable crop that is enjoyed by many gardeners. It can be productive for 15 or more years if given proper care. Asparagus is an almost leafless member of the lily family. The spears we buy in the store are actually the shoots from an underground crown. It takes up to 3 years for crowns to develop enough to begin producing shoots, but once they do, they can produce for up to 20 years. Grown for the stems or spears, a well tended planting yields 8 to 10 pounds or more per 100 square feet of bed or 24 to 30 pounds per 100 feet of row. It does not do well if summers are extremely hot and long and winters are mild.
The fleshy green spears of asparagus are both succulent and tender and have been considered a delicacy since ancient times. This highly prized vegetable arrives with the coming of spring. In California the first crops are picked as early as February, however, their season generally is considered to run from April through May. The growing season in the Midwest and East extends through July.
Asparagus grows in most any soil as long as it has good internal drainage. Asparagus roots do not like waterlogged soils that will lead to root rot. It prefers a soil pH of 6.5-7.5., and will not do well if the pH is less than 6.0. Have the soil tested to determine phosphorus and potassium needs; or add 20 lbs of a 10-20-10 or similar analysis fertilizer per 1,000 square feet, tilled to a 6 inch depth before planting.
Asparagus is grown from 1-year-old plants or “crowns” planted in January or February. Crowns grow from seed planted in flats or peat cups in October for January transplanting, or they are transplanted from an existing asparagus bed. To get healthy, vigorous plants, buy 1-year-old crowns from a nursery or garden center or order them from a seed catalog. It takes 1 year to grow a good crown. Since an asparagus planting lasts many years, good seedbed preparation is essential. The soil should be free of trash, soil insects and weeds such as johnsongrass and bermudagrass before planting. It is important to eliminate all perennial weed problems at least one year before planting. This can be done effectively by treating the actively growing weeds with a non-selective herbicide. Another way to reduce weed populations and help build soil organic matter is to prepare the field at least one year in advance. This can be done by planting a cover crop such as clover, or an early-maturing soybean variety.
Avoid harvesting spears for two years after planting and allow ferny stems to develop. Cut these to 5cm above the ground in autumn. To harvest, cut spears when they are 12cm long, removing them with a serrated knife, 7cms beneath the soil. Keep weeds pulled or hoed from the beds. Asparagus beds require little care after the first 2 years. Control weeds without damaging the spears. In early season, till the soil when fertilizer is applied before the spears begin growth. Control weeds during the season by raking lightly or mulching. After the last harvest, cut back all top growth. Apply fertilizer and till lightly 1 to 2 inches to kill weeds.

Common name of this plant is ‘variegated horseradish’. It needs the full sun and for its soil, it likes rich soil, not too dry.
Horseradish is a hardy perennial herb. Spreading with determination every year if left to its own devices, this herb reaches a height of one metre. The roots can grow to a meter in length. The leaves are large and long, almost paddle-shaped, growing 30-50cm. In the spring, heads of pretty, small white flowers with a sweet honey scent develop. Seed pods however rarely ripen in our climate. In cold parts of the country, flowers often fail to develop.
This very striking plant does not like to be disturbed. This great kitchen condiment gets a striking face-lift. White variegated foliage is a very nice contrast to the usual green. Roots can be used as a spicy condiment like the all green version. The 18-in long, wavy, crepe paper like leaves develop striking patterns of cream splashed on dark green– but not right away. It may take two or three years for it to become completely variegated, and then only if it’s left undisturbed. If you move it, you’ll have to start your wait all over again.
All of the plant, especially the roots, contain strong-smelling volatile mustard oils and is popular in sauces and is said to aid digestion; this helps especially if eaten with rich foods, such as roast beef and oily fish which are difficult to digest.
Not only can this plant spread, its roots grow to at least 60cm. A mature plant may have to be divided or removed with an axe or saw; so care and consideration is needed when adding this herb to the garden. It may be advisable to plant in an old dustbin, with holes in the bottom, to retain the spread of the roots. Sink the bin into the ground and apply well-rotted manure or compost around the plant in the spring. It doesn’t not spread aggressively, but instead, forms polite clumps gradually growing to 3 ft. across. Once the variegation does get going, the splotches and speckles are most pronounced in early spring.