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Ancho Pepper – a mild dry chili pepper originating in state of Pubela.




Image of Ancho Peppers plant at Google

The poblano is a mild chili pepper originating in the State of Puebla, Mexico. It is called Ancho pepper upon being dried.

Overview
– The ripened red poblano is significantly hotter.
– It is more flavorful than the less ripe, green poblano.
– Different peppers from the same plant have been reported to vary substantially in heat intensity.
– An immature poblano is dark purplish green in color.
– The mature fruits eventually turn a red so dark as to be nearly black.
– A poblano takes around 200 days from seed to harvest.
– Preparation methods include: dried, coated in whipped egg (capeado) and fried, stuffed, or in mole sauces.
– After being roasted and peeled, poblano peppers can be preserved by either canning or freezing.
– When dried, the poblano becomes a broad, flat, heart-shaped pod.
– This form is often ground into a powder used for flavoring recipes.
– “Poblano” is also the word for an inhabitant of Puebla.
– Mole poblano refers to the spicy chocolate chili sauce originating in Puebla.

Growing/Caring conditions for Ancho Peppers
– Sow seedlings indoors.
– It prefers well-drained soils, such as silty or sandy loams, and 800–2,000 mm (31–79 in) of annual precipitation.
– Sow them late spring to early summer.
– Poblanos grow in zones 10-12.
– A soil ph of 7.0 – 8.5 is good for this plant.
– The plant requires full sun.
– This plant needs temperatures to be at least 64 degrees F to germinate.
– Sow those eight to ten weeks before the last frost date for your area.
– They are a difficult in germination and seedlings grow slowly at first.
– Provide bottom heat or heat lamps to raise the soil temperature to 80 degrees.
– This will promote better and quicker germination.
– A heated germination mat works well.
– While your seedlings are growing, get your garden ready.
– Add plenty of compost, manure, and a general fertilizer.
– Peppers like hot weather.
– Transplant young seedlings outdoors after the last chance of frost.
– If the weather is still cool, delay transplanting a few days.
– Keep them in a cold frame, indoors.
– Space 18-24 inches apart, in rows 24 to 30 inches apart.
– Mulching around the peppers to keep down weeds, retain moisture, and help to feed the plant.
– As the peppers develop, use a fertilizer higher in Phosphorous and Potassium.
– Providing too much nitrogen will result in a great looking bushy, green plant, but few fruits.
– Peppers can be picked as soon as they reach a size which is edible.
– Continuous harvesting encourages the fruit to produce new flowers.
– Spider mites and aphids are the most common problems.
– An occasional borer insect is also known to attack this plant.
– Try an organic insecticide or dust.
– Fungal infections can be treated with fungicides. Apply treatment as soon as you see it.
– Potential pests include aphids, white flies, cutworms, pepper maggots, and Colorado potato beetles.
– Diseases include Verticillium wilt and mosaic virus.
– frost will stunt or kill the plants.
– Cold weather can cause the plant to slow down or stunt it.
– Use a hot cap in on cold and frosty spring nights.





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