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June 2010
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Red Dazzler : characteristics, how to grow, planting conditions and care that should be taken.

“Dazzler” stands alone among the new cosmos hybrids, with unique, almost rectangular blunt-tipped petals. The coloring is different too. This is one of the few true red cosmos–not pink, not purple, not maroon, but real red. When it comes to annuals, probably no plant adds more color than cosmos.

Characteristics of Red Dazzler

– Red Dazzler is the one you want for a solid mass of color, such as a wide hedge or mass planting.
– Its scarlet blooms are huge for the size of the plant, and the bright green foliage has an appealing blue cast that sets it apart from many other Cannas!
– Red Dazzler begins blooming in midsummer and continues well into fall in moderate and warm climates.
– Its red blooms reach 3 inches across and look even bigger on compact plants 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide.
– It’s perfect for waterside plantings, but it can also be integrated into the regular sunny border.
– Grow Red Dazzler in containers north of its zone 7-11 hardiness range. – It is a reliably heavy bloomer all season, and never lets you down.

Growing conditions for Red Dazzler

– Soil pH : Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
– Soil Drainage : Average
– Soil type : Clay, Loam, Sand
– Tolerances : Wet Site
– Growth Rate : Fast
– Water Requirements : Average Water, Ample Water
– Habit : Clump-Forming
– Seasonal Interest : Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
– Sun Exposure : Full Sun, Partial Sun


– Dig beds at least a shovel’s depth.
– Work a small amount of bulb food or all-purpose flower fertilizer into the bottom of the bed.
– Refrigerate tulip bulbs a few weeks before planting.
– Plant true bulbs 2-3 times as deep as they are in diameter – large bulbs deeper than small bulbs.
– Plant corms and tubers shallow, at the same level as the soil surface.
– Cover planting area with mulch 1 – 3 inches thick to prevent soil crusting in sun and rain.


– Fast-growing herbaceous plants require more attention to watering than woody plants.
– When possible, water in the morning to avoid promoting diseases from night watering.
– Water slowly and deeply when plants begin to wilt and do not perk up at night.
– Watering twice, a few minutes apart, helps water soak in deeper.
– Soaker hoses and trickle or “drip” irrigation are very efficient and water-conservative.
– Never overwater, or you may cause root problems.
– Mulches help reduce water evaporation in hot or dry weather.
– In dry climates, form a soil “ring” around plants to hold water longer.


– Tall or leggy plants may be cut or pinched back to stimulate strong new growth
– Cut or pinch stems of flowering or foliage plants just above leaves or old leaf joints.
– Thin excess growth so remaining growth will be more vigorous.
– “Deadhead” – remove faded flowers or seed heads to stimulate new flowering growth.
– Remove dead, faded, or diseased foliage as needed.
– Remove some foliage during transplanting to reduce stress on new roots.
– Clean up plants at the end of the season to reduce pest or disease buildup and to keep the area neat.
– Avoid putting diseased plant parts in the compost, or risk spreading diseases later.


– True bulbs usually form small new bulbs at the base of the old ones, and can be dug and separated when they are dormant.
– Digging and dividing bulbs while in bloom or shortly afterward can cause them to skip a year or more before flowering again.
– Dig and divide corms, rhizomes, and tubers when plants are not actively growing or flowering.
– Replant as soon as possible into well-drained garden soil, or store in cool, dry places until the appropriate season.

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