Hyacinths are one of the “big three” bulbs in gardening interest (the others being tulips and daffodils) and these extremely fragrant spring flowering bulbs are worthy of a place in your bulb garden. Carnegie is a pure white hyacinth with a deep penetrating fragrance. Reblooms for several years. As an aside, the name comes from Hyakinthos – a young man accidentally killed by one of the Greek gods and from his spilt blood, this flower emerged.
The Hyacinth, ‘Carnegie’ ‘Hyacinthus orientalis’, a fall planted bulb, is one of the few all-white Dutch hyacinths, and this plant is the perfect contrast to brightly colored bulbs. The small, pure white flowers are densely packed on intensely fragrant spikes. Grow them for their graceful shape, long-lasting blooms and sweet scent. Hyacinths are great for indoor forcing, containers, and borders. They flower in mid spring for a 3 - 4 week period.
Hyacinths require a well-drained soil. If they must be planted in heavy soil, mix some sand into the soil. For the best effects, plant the bulbs in clusters of 5 to 15 bulbs of one variety, or scatter clusters throughout the garden or flower border. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole 6 to 8 inches deep. Set the bulb in the hole, pointy end up, then cover with soil and press firmly. Space bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart. Water thoroughly after planting.
When planted in somewhat shady spots, the flowers will last longer than they would in the hot sun. You have a decision to make here. If you grow them in the shadier sections of your garden, the individual blooms will last longer on the bulbs in the spring as the hot sun does tend to shorten the bloom time. The downside to this is that the bulb itself will not thrive in the shade and will die out. If you need flowers for a special spring event, mass plant them anywhere you like and treat this bulb as an annual flower.
You can easily propagate new plants by harvesting the little offsets that develop on the older bulbs. After the plant is fully dormant, (late summer) you can dig the bulb and separate these small offsets. It will take these small bulblets 2 to 3 years to develop enough size/strength to generate flowers. You can also grow them from seed treating the seed as a perennial.
Wear gloves to prevent skin irritation. These plants are deer, squirrel and rabbit resistant.
If you want to force the bulbs to flower out of season, then you need to use a technique called forcing. To do this, heat-treated hyacinth bulbs, which are more expensive than normal bulbs, need to be placed in a dark place for several weeks to allow flower buds to develop. To make a flowering bowl, start by planting three bulbs of the same colour in individual pots. Almost fill an 8cm (3in) pot with moist bulb fibre, and then push a bulb in gently to half its depth. Put pots in a cool, dark place, such as a garage or shed for about ten weeks to allow the roots to grow. Check bulbs regularly and water if the compost feels dry. When shoots appear, wait until they are about 5cm (2in) high and arrange the three pots in an 18cm (7in) bowl. Fill the gaps with more bulb fibre and place in a light spot to flower. Keep compost moist. After flowering, bulbs will be exhausted and are best thrown away - you could add them to your compost heap, but make sure you chop them up finely.

Pea is a frost-hardy, cool-season vegetable that can be grown throughout most of the United States, wherever a cool season of sufficient duration exists. For gardening purposes, peas may be classified as garden peas (English peas), snap peas and snow peas (sugar peas).
Garden pea varieties have smooth or wrinkled seeds. The smooth-seeded varieties tend to have more starch than the wrinkled-seeded varieties. The wrinkled-seeded varieties are generally sweeter and usually preferred for home use. The smooth-seeded types are used more often to produce ripe seeds that are used like dry beans and to make split-pea soup.
Snap peas have been developed from garden peas to have low-fiber pods that can be snapped and eaten along with the immature peas inside.
Snow peas are meant to be harvested as flat, tender pods before the peas inside develop at all.
The Southern pea (cowpea) is an entirely different warm-season vegetable that is planted and grown in the same manner as beans.
Peas thrive in cool, moist weather and produce best in cool, moderate climates. Early plantings normally produce larger yields than later plantings. Peas may be planted whenever the soil temperature is at least 45°F, and the soil is dry enough to till without its sticking to garden tools.
Peas grow best in moist rich soil throughout the cooler parts of the growing season. Water by soaking soil, avoid spraying foliage. A delicious source of many vitamins and minerals. When possible plant rows in a north-south direction for best sun exposure and good air circulation.
Plantings of heat-tolerant varieties can be made in midsummer to late summer, to mature during cool fall days. Allow more days to the first killing frost than the listed number of days to maturity because cool fall days do not speed development of the crop as do the long, bright days of late spring.
Sow directly into the garden as soon as the soil is workable from early to mid-spring. Sow seeds 2 inches apart and cover with 1 to 1 1/2 inches of fine soil firmed down. For successive crops, plant at 2 to 3 week intervals until mid-spring. Sow again in late July to early August for fall crop.
The germinating seeds and small seedlings are easily injured by direct contact with fertilizer or improper cultivation. Cultivate and hoe shallowly during the early stages of growth. Peas can be mulched to cool the soil, reduce moisture loss and keep down soil rots.

Aconitum (A-co-ní-tum), known as aconite, monkshood, or wolfsbane, is a genus of flowering plant belonging to the buttercup family (Ranunculaceae). There are over 250species of Aconitum. These herbaceous perennial plants are chiefly natives of the mountainous parts of the northern hemisphere, growing in moisture retentive but well draining soils on mountain meadows. Their dark green leaves lack stipules. They are palmate or deeply palmately lobed with 5–7 segments. Each segment again is 3-lobed with coarse sharp teeth. The leaves have a spiral or alternate arrangement. The flowers have a large upper petal resembling a hood, hence the common name.
The most common plant in this genus, Aconitum napellus (the Common Monkshood) was considered to be of therapeutic and toxicological importance. Its roots have occasionally been mistaken for horseradish. It has a short underground stem, from which dark-colored tapering roots descend. The crown or upper portion of the root gives rise to new plants. When touched to one’s lip, the juice of the aconite root produces a feeling of numbness and tingling. The roots of Aconitum ferox supply the Indian (Nepal) poison called bikh, bish, or nabee. It contains large quantities of the alkaloid pseudaconitine, which is a deadly poison. Aconitum palmatum yields another of the bikh poisons. The root of Aconitum luridum, of the Himalaya, is said to be as virulent as that of A. ferox or A. napellus. Several species of Aconitum have been used as arrow poisons. The Minaro in Ladakh use A. napellus on their arrows to hunt ibex, while the Ainus in Japan used a species of Aconitum to hunt bear. The Chinese also used Aconitum poisons both for hunting, and for warfare.
The plant is a hardy perennial, with a fleshy, spindle-shaped root, palecoloured when young, but subsequently acquiring a dark brown skin. The stem is about 3 feet high, with dark green, glossy leaves, deeply divided in palmate manner and flowers in erect clusters of a dark blue colour. The shape of the flower is specially designed to attract and utilize bee visitors, especially the humble bee. The sepals are purple - purple being specially attractive to bees - and are fancifully shaped, one of them being in the form of a hood. The petals are only represented by the two very curious nectaries within the hood, somewhat in the form of a hammer; the stamens are numerous and lie depressed in a bunch at the mouth of the flower. They are pendulous at first, but rise in succession and place their anthers forward in such a way that a bee visiting the flower for nectar is dusted with the pollen, which he then carries to the next flower he visits and thereby fertilizes the undeveloped fruits, which are in a tuft in the centre of the stamens, each carpel containing a single seed.
Monkshoods make a good show when you need vertical spires with blue flowers in summer and autumn. The heights range from 1m (like the blue and white A. x cammarum ‘Bicolor’) to just 60cm. This medium-high, extremely popular form has white-eyed blue flowers and very attractive blue-grey foliage. In open, exposed areas the taller kinds need to be tied to stakes to keep them upright after being battered by strong winds.
Aconite prefers a soil slightly retentive of moisture, such as a moist loam, and flourishes best in shade. It would probably grow luxuriantly in a moist, open wood, and would yield returns with little further trouble than weeding, digging up and drying. In preparing beds for growing Aconite, the soil should be well dug and pulverized by early winter frosts - the digging in of rotten leaves or stable manure is advantageous.
The plant requires full sun or light shade. This plant will live in the shade but the flowers get quite floppy with reduced sunlight. They perform best with a minimum of six hours of full sun every day.
The plant can be raised from seed, sown 1/2 inch deep in a cold frame in March, or in a warm position outside in April, but great care must be exercised that the right kind is obtained, as there are many varieties of Aconite- about twenty-four have been distinguished - and they have not all the same active medicinal properties. It takes two or three years to flower from seed.
Propagation is usually by division of roots in the autumn. The underground portion of the plants are dug up after the stem has died down, and the smaller of the ‘daughter’ roots that have developed at the side of the old roots are selected for replanting in December or January to form new stock, the young roots being planted about a foot apart each way. The young shoots appear above ground in February. Although the plants are perennial, each distinct root lasts only one year, the plant being continued by ‘daughter’ roots.
Beware: It is extremely toxic and poisonous, so florists and consumers should wash their hands thoroughly after handling. When even attempting to grow Monkshood you should handle the seeds and the seedlings, and even the plants with protective gloves (surgical gloves), and wash your hands when finished.

‘Variegata’ is a more controlled and illuminating form of Giant Reed Grass, serving as a strong focal point in the landscape. This Giant Reed Grass has creamy yellow/white variegated foliage, but does not grow quite as large as the species. The same great impressive flowers and winter interest as species, just a different color.
A tall growing ornamental grass that will add an architectural touch to any planting scheme. Plants spread by underground rhizomes forming attractive leafy clumps that will make a bold statement at the back of border. The variety ‘Variegata’ has a broad yellow stripe along its leaves. Variegated forms are more tender than the plain green ones so plant in a sheltered spot away from strong winds. The flowers which appear in late autumn are purplish green and remain on the plant once growth dies back. Dormant canes are showy all winter.
Native to the Mediterranean region, giant reed has been widely introduced and is now common in many parts of the world, including the southern U.S. from California to Florida and northward on the East Coast to Maryland. It can be found growing on river banks and in ditches. Giant reed often is planted to control erosion on wet slopes and canal banks. It can be an invasive weed in tropical climates, clogging irrigation ditches and displacing native species in natural wetlands. Giant reed is not invasive in temperate regions.
Grasses are easy to grow, and adapts to most conditions & Giant reed grows best and gets largest with lots of water during the growing season. It thrives in soils that stay moist, and can even tolerate occasional standing water. Unlike most reeds, however, giant reed also does well in average garden soils, where it will not get as large nor spread as aggressively. It even tolerates drought. USDA Zones 6 - 11. Giant reed gets largest in frost-free climates where it grows to 20 ft (6.1 m) and stays evergreen. It dies to the ground in frosty areas, and may not flower, but it comes back in spring to get 10-12 ft (3-3.7 m) tall in a single growing season.
Feed once a year with a slow release fertilizer.

The Brussels (or brussels or brussel) sprout (Brassica oleracea Gemmifera Group) of the Brassicaceae family, is a cultivar group of Wild Cabbage cultivated for its small (typically 2.5 - 4cm, 1 - 1.5 inches diameter) leafy green buds, which resemble miniature cabbages. The name stems from the original place of cultivation, not because of the vegetable’s popularity in Brussels.
Brussels sprouts are among the same family that includes cabbage, collard greens, broccoli, kale, and kohlrabi. They contain good amounts of vitamin A, vitamin C, folic acid and dietary fibre. Moreover, they are believed to protect against colon cancer, due to their containing sinigrin. Like cauliflower, it thrives best in a cool humid climate, thus commercial production of this crop is concentrated in the “fog-belt” of California with limited production in the Long Island, New York area. The edible portion of this crop is the “bud” or small cabbage-like head which grows in the axils of each leaf. Occasionally the tops are used as greens.
The “sprouts” (small heads that resemble miniature cabbages) are produced in the leaf axils, starting at the base of the stem and working upward. Sprouts improve in quality and grow best during cool or even lightly frosty weather. Brussels sprouts require a long growing period, though newer hybrids have greatly reduced this requirement. In all but the most northern states, summers are usually too warm for completely satisfactory production from spring plantings. Plants set out in late spring to early summer grow satisfactorily and mature high-quality sprouts when the fall weather begins to cool.
Sprouts are very tolerant of almost all soil conditions although they dislike acid soils which can make them more susceptible to club root. A nitrogen fertiliser should be applied to the soil every 3 weeks through the growing season. A firm soil is best in order to enable the root system to support these top heavy plants. Dig some organic compost into the soil a few weeks before planting to help the soils moisture retention properties. Brussel Sprouts need a large amount of water but do not like standing water. Ensure to water the crop adequately during the growing season as the plants require water for growth and sprout development.
They will grow equally well in sun or partial shade, but prefer partial shade. Be sure not to grow them in front of other plants which need full sun, their foliage will put others in the shade. Again, because they are top-heavy, they should be grown in an area which is free from strong winds.
If you live in the colder regions of the United States - USDA zones 5 and below - the brussels sprout could be the best friend your kitchen garden ever had. Not only does it shrug off cold spells that would turn most veggie plants to mush, but a few good frosts actually enhance its flavor and appearance (which bears scant resemblance to that of the olive-drab stuff in the supermarket produce bins). They will grow well in temperatures up to 75 deg F. Warm temperatures will cause the sprouts to open up and lose their firmness. Warm weather also causes the flavour of the sprout to be more intense.
The sprouts form in the leaf axils (the point between where the leaf joins the stem) and can be harvested around 3 months after planting. Pick the sprouts when they are about 2-2.5cm in diameter or as soon as the lower leaves on the plant start to yellow. Pick or cut the sprout off the stem and remove any loose leaves from the sprout. Store the sprouts in a cool dark place. Like most things sprouts taste best when they are fresh.
For growing in fields, growers may grow plants and transplant to the field or the crop can be seeded directly in the field using a precision type seeder. For transplanting, 3 to 4 ounces of seed will be required to produce plants for one acre. Drill the seed in rows about 8 to 10 inches apart on a raised bed 36 to 42 inches wide and 4 to 6 inches high. Drill from 20 to 25 seeds per foot of row. The plant bed should be fumigated for control of weeds and soil-borne insects and diseases. The bed should be thoroughly aerated prior to seeding. Keep the soil moist after seeding to promote rapid germination and emergence. Thin, if necessary, to a spacing of 1 inch between plants. Greenhouse-grown transplants may also be used and several plant growing systems are available. If seeded directly in the field it will take 1 to 2 pounds of seed per acre.

Petunia is a, trumpet shaped, widely-cultivated genus of flowering plants of South American origin, in the family Solanaceae. The popular flower got its name from French, which took the word petun ‘tobacco’ from a Tupi-Guarani language. Most of the varieties seen in gardens are hybrids (Petunia x hybrida). Many open-pollinated species are also gaining popularity in the home garden. A wide range of flower colors, sizes, and plant architectures are available in both the hybrid and open-pollinated species. Height can vary from 6 inches to 18 inches. Spread can be from 18inches to 4 feet. The size of the flowers varies from an inch in diameter from 5 to 6inches.
Petunias are one of the best summer flowering annuals for massed display, and they also look good in pots and hanging baskets. Use petunias in beds and borders. The spreading grandifloras are best appreciated trailing over the sides of hanging baskets or containers. Petunias can be found in every color of the rainbow in solids, contrasting veins or edges, and star patterns. The flowers may be large or small, ruffled, fringed, or double. They bloom from spring until frost. Many petunias, especially white and lavender cultivars have a very sweet fragrance. You can expect blooms throughout the summer and into autumn if faded flowers are removed regularly. Plants quickly grow to a height of 10-16 inches. Petunias can be used as cut flowers, but they look their best in garden displays.
If growing petunias, it’s best to leave them in full sunlight and only water them when their soil is dry to the touch. They will become spindly and have few flowers if grown in shade. Although generally grown as annuals (at least in temperate areas), they are perennial in warm climates (roughly zone 9 or warmer).
Petunias grow well in most soils. Best growth occurs in well-drained, light soil of medium fertility. If the soil or the area is poorly drained, you can build raised beds to grow good petunias. They prefer soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Adequate soil fertility can be maintained by working a complete fertilizer, such as a 5- 10-5, into the soil each spring. Use about 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of planting space. Soil drainage can be improved by incorporating organic matter (compost, peat, or well-rotted manure) into the upper 6 to 8 inches of soil.
When buying petunias in the spring, select compact, stocky plants. Tall, spindly plants take considerably longer to recover from transplanting. Once purchased, harden the plants outdoors for a few days before planting them into the garden. Initially place plants in a shady, protected area and then gradually expose them to direct sun. Bring them indoors at night if freezing temperature are predicted. Petunias can be transplanted into the garden after the danger of frost has passed. In central Iowa, the last frost usually occurs around May 5-10. Plant petunias about 12 inches apart. Pinch back the plants to encourage branching. Pinching is especially helpful for tall, leggy plants.

Daylilies comprise the small genus Hemerocallis of flowering plants in the family Hemerocallidaceae. The scientific name for daylily is Hemerocallis, most recently considered to belong in the plant family Hemerocallidaceae. Previously, many older works placed daylilies in the Lily family, Liliaceae. The genus Hemerocallis is native to the countries in the temperate parts of AsiadotJapan, Siberia, Korea, China, and Eurasia.
They are not true lilies. The flowers of most species open at sunrise and wither at sunset, possibly replaced by another one on the same stem the next day. Some species are night-blooming. Daylilies are not commonly used as cut flowers for formal flower arranging, yet they make good cut flowers otherwise as new flowers continue to open on cut stems over several days. Their large showy flowers have made them popular worldwide. There are over 60,000 registered cultivars. Only a few cultivars are scented. Some cultivars rebloom later in the season, particularly if their developing seedpods are removed.
The daylily is sometimes referred to as the perfect perennial because it is:
* Available in a rainbow of colors and a variety of shapes and sizes.
* Able to survive with very little care in a wide range of climates.
* Suitable for all types of landscapes.
* Drought resistant and almost disease and insect free.
* Adaptable to various soil and light conditions.
* Known to bloom from late spring until autumn.
The flower consists of three petals and three sepals, collectively called tepals, each with a midrib in the same or in a contrasting color. The centermost section of the flower, called the throat, has usually a different and contrasting color. There are six stamens, each with a two-lobed anther. After pollination, the flower forms a pod.
Most daylilies bloom for a single day, beginning in the early morning and lasting until the evening. There are three terms necessary to describe the normal and the atypical bloom habits found in daylilies:
* Diurnal, which is the normal day-blooming daylily type.
* Nocturnal, where daylilies open late in the afternoon, remain open all night, and close the following morning or early afternoon.
* Extended, where individual daylily blooms remain open at least 16 hours. Both diurnals and nocturnals may be extended bloomers.
Daylilies can be grown in USDA plant hardiness zones 1 through 11, making them some of the most adaptable landscape plants. However, the cold-hardiness of daylilies is quite variable. Some are iron-clad hardy. Others are extremely tender. Cold-hardiness is not determined by the foliage habit. Evergreen, dormant, and semi-evergreen can be anything from extremely cold-hardy to extremely tender. To avoid risk of losing a cultivar, choose daylilies which others have already grown successfully in your climate.
Daylilies grow best in full sun. They will tolerate light shade, but flower best with a minimum of six hours of direct sun. Light shade during the hottest part of the day keeps the flowers fresh. Daylilies should not be planted near trees and shrubs that are likely to compete for moisture and nutrients.
Daylilies can be planted almost any time the soil can be worked. Till the soil deeply before planting. Work in well-rooted manure or compost to increase organic matter. Apply fertilizer based on a soil test. Contact your local Extension office for soil test information. Dig a hole large enough for the roots without bending or crowding them.
The plants like an adequate supply of water (1″ per week) and you will be rewarded during the later half of the season if this is supplied, especially with repeat bloomers. They are not fussy about soil, but if your soil is extremely heavy clay, the addition of sand plus compost will be of benefit. If, on the other hand, your soil is so sandy it will not retain moisture, the addition of compost will also help. Daylilies prefer slightly acid (pH 6 to 6.5) well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. They are however, very tolerant and will grow in almost any soil except poorly drained soils. If drainage is a problem, plant daylilies in raised beds.
Your plants can remain in place for several years, and as long as they continue to bloom well, do not need to be divided. If the bloom diminishes or the clumps become too large, they can be divided to provide you with new plants. Daylilies grow rapidly to form dense clumps. Division is not essential but may revitalize flowering if the plants have become crowded. Division is the usual way to increase your supply of daylilies. Dividing is usually done following flowering, but plants will tolerate division throughout the entire growing season.
The best time to transplant or divide plants is early spring or immediately after flowering. Plants divided in the spring may not bloom the same summer. Divisions should have two to three stems or fans of leaves with all roots attached. Make divisions by digging the entire plant and gently pulling the fans apart. Cut the foliage back, leaving only five or six inches. Place the plant in the soil so the crown (the portion where the stem and root meets) is one inch below the ground line. Water thoroughly after planting. A winter mulch of straw or shredded leaves helps ensure against winter injury for unestablished plants.
Daylilies look best if given some grooming through the year. During winter, remove any rotted or damaged foliage from around evergreen daylilies. Remove spent blooms and seedpods after summer flowering to improve appearance and encourage rebloom. When all the flowers on a scape (the daylilies’ flowering stalk) are finished, cut off the scape close to ground level. Remove dead foliage from daylilies as they die back in the fall.

Question: Many times houseplants thrive for three or four months, then start declining, and eventually die, even though they get water and are fertilized regularly. Need some advice.

Answer: Some general guidelines. Different houseplants will require different amounts of light, water, etc.

- Read the plant label, check with nursery staff, or consult a reference for more specific information.

- Watering: Houseplants tend to be very particular. One of the most common problems is overwatering. Plants in small containers in bright light may need watering daily or every other day, while plants in large pots in low light may need watering once every two or three weeks. For most plants, the key is to water thoroughly, letting excess water drain off, then wait until the soil dries out somewhat before watering again.

- Light exposure: Plant are adapted to different light levels, so choose plants that fit your conditions. Don’t try to grow a sun-loving plant in a dark corner!

- Fertilizer: Don’t overdo it. Generally, houseplants do most of their growth between March and August, so fertilize regularly during spring and summer. Cut back or eliminate fertilizer in the fall and winter months.

Finally, remember also that almost all houseplants hate drafts–hot or cold–so keep them away from doorways and heating and air conditioning vents. And give them lots of love and see how they grow.

A cherry tomato is a smaller garden variety of tomato. It is marketed at a premium to ordinary tomatoes, and is popular as a snack and in salads. Cherry tomatoes are generally considered to be similar but not identical to the wild precursor of the domestic tomato. They are often sweeter than standard tomatoes. Cherry tomatoes are sometimes shunned for not offering the rich old-fashioned flavors that you get with larger fruits, but they definitely have a few advantages of their own.
Cherry tomatoes have a way of thriving with less in the way of attention and care from the gardener. Many of them will grow perfectly fine without staking, are more tolerant of drought and weather fluctuations, and less prone to the cracking and blossom end rot that frequently afflict full sized tomato varieties. Another advantage of cherry tomatoes is that they will mature and ripen earlier in the season and continue to bear ripe fruits throughout the summer and into the fall months. The creative gardener may even find ways to nurture a crop indoors over the winter. Most cherry tomato varieties are incredibly productive, yielding hundreds of ripe fruits from a single plant.
Cherry tomatoes are easy to grow in containers on a deck or a patio and require minimal care, so they’re perfect for even unambitious gardeners. Buy an organic potting mix instead of using dirt from the garden to avoid transferring diseases or pests to your plant. Check the soil daily to see if it’s dry, and keep it consistently moist. Position the pot so it gets at least six hours of sun daily. Use a pot that holds four to six gallons of soil. Plastic, fiberglass, and foam work well (these materials won’t let water evaporate quickly from the roots), but any kind of container will do, from a terra-cotta planter to a garbage can. Just be sure it has drainage holes in the bottom.
Buy cherry tomato seedlings from your local nursery for planting after the last frost date in spring. Look for heirloom varieties, or for fun, try the pearl variety. Two plants will produce plenty of fruit, unless you’re feeding an army.
Choose a site with full sun. Work in plenty of compost or other organic matter if your soil is clay or sandy. Dig a hole large enough to fit the base of the plant. Remove the plant from its container. Using the tip of a garden trowel, dig gently into the root ball at the bottom of the plant and “rough it up” so that dirt falls out into your hole and the roots hang down.
Water generously, but not so much that dirt flows out of the hole. Water approximately once every two days. Fertilize every two weeks with liquid fertilizer.

Hylocereus undatus (Red Pitaya) is a kind of Cactaceae and is the most cultivated species in the genus Hylocereus Undatus. It is used both as ornamental vine and fruit cultivation as - Pitaya or Dragonfruit Hylocereus Undatus. The Pitaya is a stunningly beautiful fruit with an intense colour and shape, magnificent flowers and a delicious taste. It produces fruit of 1 kg or more and has a light melon-like taste. Other common names for this plant are: Red Pitaya, Pitahaya Cross, night blooming Cereus, Strawberry Pear, Belle of the Night, Conderella Plant.
Hylocereus undatus or Night-Blooming Cereus, is widespread in the American tropics. The stems are 3-winged and green with wings that are 1 to 2 inches wide. Areoles are about 1 ½ inches (4.5 cm) apart with 1 to 5 spines to 5/32 of an inch (1 cm) long. They climb by use of aerial roots and can reach a height 30 feet (~10 meters) or more growing on rocks and trees. The plant may grow out of, and over the ground or climb onto trees using aerial roots.
As indicated by the name, the blooms appear at night and soon close after the day starts. In late spring to early summer the very large white fragrant flowers adorn the plant. Individual flower are 14 inches (35 cm) long by 12 inches (30 cm) across.
The plant grows best in dry, tropical or subtropical climates where annual rainfall ranges from 20-50″ per year. In wet, tropical zones, plants may grow well but sometimes have problems setting fruit reliably. The plant will tolerate temperatures to 104F, and short periods of frost, but prolonged cold will damage or kill the plant. The plants aren’t usually too picky as to soil type, but because of their epiphytic nature, it is recommended to grow them in soil that is supplemented with high amounts of organic material. The plant has been grown successfully in sandy soils. Shade is sometimes provided in hot climates.
Hylocereus undatus is propagated by cutting or by seed in the spring. Seed should be sown in well-drained compost and should germinate in 14 to 28 days at 18° - 21° C.