The genus Geranium contains several species of interest in the garden; but the various plants, collectively called geranium, which are grown as decorative pot plants all belong in the genus Pelargonium.
Annual geraniums are popular for their wide range of brilliant flower color and attractive leaves. They can be grown as bedding plants and in containers on decks and patios, in hanging baskets, or in window boxes. Their use as window plants dates to 1700. Modern hybrids of the various types of Pelargonium have been brought to a high standard of perfection. Leaf-color, scent, longevity of bloom, ease of culture and propagation-there is little to be desired to earn a perfect mark in the window garden. There is great variation in leaf, flower and growth habit of geraniums. They vary in height from 6 inches to several feet, depending on the cultivar and the care given the plants.
Geraniums require a sunny window. Top growth should be sprayed daily, but the soil in the pot should be kept barely moist. Too much water causes leaves to brown and buds to blast and fall off. Cut plants back in May, both branches and main stem. Re-pot if necessary, but if the plant looks healthy just renew the top inch of potting mixture and plunge plant in the garden. You will have to decide whether the geraniums are to blossom during the summer or the winter. They will do either, but not both.
Geraniums need at least four hours a day of direct sunlight in order to flourish and flower well. In very hot areas it may be best to give the plants a few hours of shade midday. Plant geraniums outdoors after all danger of frost is past and the soil has warmed.
Never allow the plants to wilt or the leaves will turn yellow and drop off. Mulch the bed to maintain moisture levels and keep the soil cooler in summer. Soil for geraniums should be well-drained. Geraniums respond well to fertilizer and are stunted and yellowed if not provided enough nitrogen. Fertilize new flowerbeds with one pound of a 10-20-10 fertilizer or the equivalent per 100 square feet. Mix the fertilizer into the soil well. Geraniums usually require additional fertilizer during the growing season every four to six weeks.
Geraniums have the habit of growing tall and lanky; long shoots should be constantly pruned to keep plants shapely and compact. When growing geraniums in containers, choose large pots to hold enough soil for a good root system, and to contain enough water to prevent wilting. Repot into larger containers if they grow so large that they wilt frequently. Select containers with adequate drainage holes, plant in a well-drained soil mix and do not allow pots to sit in water.
Propagating is by stem cuttings, which root in about 5 weeks. They will need several increasingly larger pots during the first summer in the garden.
For winter flowers, the buds appearing from late May through the summer must be ruthlessly pinched out as fast as they appear. For summer flowers on geraniums, a different schedule is used. Lift the plants from the garden in October and pot them. Cut them back, place in a cool room, and water only once a week. From November until the following May the plants should be rested in a dark cellar with just enough watering to prevent complete drying off. In May they are removed from the pot and planted in the garden bed where they begin to flower in several weeks.

The Greek translation of the word Clematis refers to the vine like characteristics of these climbers. Montana Clematis varieties are probably the easiest to grow, very prolific blooming and some of the most vigorous growers. Best for zone 5 and south. All varieties bloom May and June.
Clematis montana ‘Elizabeth’ is a vigorous, deciduous climber and belongs to AHS group. This vigorous, deciduous Clematis has mid green leaves and strongly fragrant, pale pink flowers. The flowers are produced in late spring and early summer and grow on the previous year’s wood. It is the leaf stalks of Clematis montana ‘Elizabeth’ that twine around the support. Elizabeth has vanilla-scented pale pink flowers in abundance in spring with some repeats in late summer. Rich dark foliage compliments the flowers and looks great all summer.
Montana ‘Elizabeth’ is very hardy and is highly suitable for sites which are cold and exposed. Hardy to about -10 degrees F. Needs sun to Partial Shade. Average Water Needs, so water regularly; do not overwater.
Plant deeply to avoid clematis wilt and if wilt occurs cut down to base and plant will shoot again the following season. Feed with bonemeal before and after flowering season, water copiously when in flower. Established plants can benefit from fertilization.
Take stem cuttings 100 to 125mm(4″-5″) long of half ripened wood in July ensure that there are two buds at the base. lnsert in a mixture of peat and sand (equal parts by volume) and place on a hot bed @15-18*C (60-65*F). Pot the rooted cuttings singly into 70mm (3″) pots potting compost. Overwinter in a frost free frame or greenhouse.
In spring pot on into 125mm(5″) pots, and plunge outdoors. Plant out in final quarters from October onwards. Prune after blooming if needed.

Rosemary is one of those wonderful herbs that makes a beautiful ornamental plant as well as a welcome culinary seasoning. Its Latin name, Rosmarinus officinalis, means “dew of the sea” and rosemary is most closely associated with the cooking of the Mediterranean area. Dependent on the variety, it has small, profuse flowers appearing in late spring which range from dark blue through pale blue right down to white.
This aromatic evergreen is an indispensable kitchen herb, it’s used as an ornamental element in the garden, and it is used in aromatherapy. Rosemary is a member of the Labiatae or mint family. Its blue-green, needlelike foliage and compelling fragrance make this tender perennial a must in any garden. Another great advantage of rosemary is that it is a perennial and will last for twenty years or more with only minimal pruning once a year. Rosemary is a good choice if you want shrubs that are able to withstand droughts well. It will survive a severe lack of water for lengthy periods of time.
You don’t need perfect sunshine, sea mist or even a never ending summer to successfully grow rosemary. In fact, more rosemary plants suffer from too much attention than from too little. Growing rosemary indoors in the winter can be a challenge. It is easy to nurture and care for indoor rosemary too much. Excess water will damage the roots and cause the plant to die, so I let the soil dry, then water thoroughly.
Rosemary prefers a light soil, a sandy soil will fully satisfy its meagre feeding needs. Having said that, rosemary is tolerant of most soil conditions as long as they are not water-logged. Rosemary prefers a slightly limey soil (the opposite of acid) because this results in smaller plants with more fragrant leaves. True to it’s origins, rosemary prefers sunny and sheltered conditions. It will stand severe frosts if conditions are not windy and wet as well. If you live in subzero winter temperatures, grow your rosemary in containers so you can move the plants to a cool, sunny room in the winter. If you live in a warm climate, don’t leave your rosemary near a hot window.
Start with plants grown from cuttings, since rosemary often is hard to grow from seed. Propagating Rosemary by cutting requires about an 8cm cutting be taken from new growth in late spring (cut just below a leaf joint). Place the cutting in a small pot filled with potting compost. Stand the pot in water to enable the compost to draw water up. Once the compost is moist place the pot under glass of some kind (I.e. a windowsill propagator or clear plastic bottle) to retain heat. The cutting should develop roots and be ready for transplanting about 2 months after the cutting.
Grow in sandy soil with pH level of 7-8. Pinch the tips to direct growth. Once you have a well-established plant, increase your supply by taking cuttings. Don’t take more than 20 percent of the plant, however. Check container-grown plants twice a year and shift to larger containers when roots become crowded. Some varieties of rosemary grow as high as six feet.
Getting it off ground level will help to reduce humidity and increase drainage. Also, don’t crowd your Rosemary. With a few exceptions they are large plants and need space. This is especially important if you have humid summers, because it allows air to move more freely around the plant. If your soil is rich in organic matter, you should never need to fertilize. If your Rosemary is already planted and you want to improve the soil, layer compost three to four inches around the base of the plant. If you spray no harmful chemicals and use only organic fertilizers, the critters at ground level and below will take your compost to the plants roots and nourish the plants and the soil.
If transplanting from pot to the outside soil make sure to the base of the plant is at the same depth (the top) of the soil as it was in the pot. Transplant rosemary to their its final position not an intermediate position. A compost tea feed can be applied to the soil every month during the growing soil although Rosemary does not require a rich soil. If growing rosemary in containers then water when the potting soil is about to dry out.
The biggest problem with growing rosemary indoors is its tendency to get powdery mildew. Powdery mildew is a white, powdery fungus that can develop if the surrounding air is humid and there is not enough air movement. Powdery mildew won’t kill your rosemary, but it will weaken the plant. Keep the humidity low by allowing the soil to dry somewhat between waterings, keeping the plant in sunlight and, if necessary, running a fan for a few hours a day to create a breeze.

Clover (Trifolium), or trefoil, is a genus of about 300 species of plants in the pea family Fabaceae. The genus has a cosmopolitan distribution; the highest diversity is found in the temperate Northern Hemisphere, but many species also occur in South America and Africa, including at high altitudes on mountains in the tropics. Clovers originated in southeastern Europe and southwestern Asia Minor. They were once believed to be a curative for heart disease because of their heart-shaped leaves. Modern medicine has extracted a chemical, coumarin, from clover which is used as a blood thinner
Several species are extensively cultivated as fodder-plants. The most widely cultivated clovers are White clover Trifolium repens and Red clover Trifolium pratense. Clover, either sown alone or in mixture with ryegrass, has for a long time formed a staple crop for soiling, for several reasons; it grows freely, shooting up again after repeated mowings; it produces an abundant crop; it is palatable to and nutritious for livestock; it grows in a great range of soils and climates; and it is appropriate either for pasturage or green composting.
Not only does clover act as a cover crop, it also enriches the soil with nitrogen and prevents erosion. Clover snatches nitrogen out of the air, bringing this most essential fertilizer “down-to-earth” by means of nitrogen-fixing bacteria living in nodes along the roots — all at no cost to you, in terms either of money or of maintenance. The plant’s fast growing quality and aesthetic appeal makes it popular among lawn growers. Clover tolerates compacted soil better than lawn grass does. It has longer roots, enabling it to access water at deeper levels.
Clover does best when planted in spring and summer. If you wish to add clover to your lawn, power rake or otherwise scruff the soil surface to provide good soil to seed contact. Seed at a rate of 2 to 8 oz. per 1,000 square feet, depending on the amount of clover desired in the lawn. At 8 oz. per 1,000 square feet, clover will become the dominant plant. Ensure that the seeds are not planted too deep. Clover seeds are very small and should not be sowed deeper than half an inch.
The first requirement for planting Clover is not unlike the requirements of other forage crops. pH should have been adjusted well before planting and seedbed preparation should begin with a very thorough disking of the selected site in September. The food plot should then be harrowed to achieve a uniform planting surface. This is the first step that can be overlooked with some other forages that one should pay special attention to with clover.
Since clover seeds are small, uniform distribution may be difficult. Mix sawdust or Milorganite, a low analysis organic fertilizer, with the seed prior to spreading to simplify distribution. Keep soil moist until clover has become established. Clover will not thrive under a program of heavy fertilization. Remember that adequate moisture is critical for clover growth as it keeps the bacteria alive. Water the plot using spray nozzle. Make sure you do not use a strong nozzle for this purpose as it can wash the seeds.
If you consider clover a weed, and want to control it, spray with MCPP in spring or fall, when temperatures are expected to remain cool. Do not use it when temperatures are predicted to reach 80 to 85 degrees within 24 hours. MCPP, (short for 2-(2-methyl-4-chlorophenoxy) propionic acid), may be listed as mecoprop and is the active ingredient in clover and chickweed killer. It is also found in some general purpose broad-leaf weed killers. Wait 3 to 4 weeks before reseeding after using MCPP. Don’t reapply MCPP if clover appears unaffected. Usually it takes 6 to 8 weeks for the clover to disappear.

Antirrhinum is a genus of plants more commonly known as snapdragons from the flowers’ fancied resemblance to the face of a dragon that opens and closes its mouth when properly squeezed (thus the ’snap’).
Snapdragons are a particular favorite of children who like to pinch the tiny individual blossoms and make the “dragon mouth” open and close. Their large, blossom-laden flower heads are faintly fragrant and come in in a wide assortment of bright colors. The vertical flower spikes, opening gradually from the bottom to the top, are available in two heights: dwarf varieties grow to about 10 inches while the taller types grow to a height of 18-24 inches. A vareity that grows up to 5 feet has been developed, but it must be staked. A single snapdragon plant may produce seven or eight blossom spikes in the course of a summer.
Snapdragons are perennial plants often sold as cold-season annual plants and do best in full or partial sun. They are available in a range of heights: dwarf (6-8 inches), medium (15-30 inches) and tall (30-48 inches). Plant them in a soil that drains well to prevent the roots from rotting. Grow in full sun. For cool season bloom, plant snapdragons in September.
Sow seeds indoors eight weeks before the last frost. Moving seedlings outdoors as early as a the bed can be worked. They will tolerate frost. In Zones 8-10, seedlings started in a sheltered seedbed may be moved outdoors any time in the fall for winter and spring flowering. Plants should stand from 6 to 12 inches apart, depending on the size of the variety planted. Seedlings purchased from a garden center where conditions are carefully controled will usually bloom earlier than those started at home. If possible, choose rust resistant varieties. When the plants are 2 to 4 inches tall, pinch off the stem tips if shorter but more abundant flower spikes are desired. Then, as the flowers mature, use them freely for bouquets; the cutting will force plants to produce additional stems that will bloom later in the season. These plants will benefit from deadheading, which will prolong their flowering period.
Snapdragons are known to be cut flowers. As an example, take a particular bush that is not fully grown. They still have about 6 to 8 more inches to grow. They are going to be a little bit taller. Once they are fully developed, what you do is cut about 6 of them. When you do that, be sure that you cut the stem heading in this direction and by doing this, what you do is you are allowing the water to penetrate through the stem and maintain the flower fresh for about 2 weeks or so I would say. After that I would definitely suggest that add between 1 to 2 aspirins in the water which is going to revive the flower. Also every other day, feel free to change the water.

Beta vulgaris, commonly known as beet or beetroot, is a flowering plant species in the family Chenopodiaceae. Several cultivars are valued around the world as edible root vegetables, fodder (mangel) and sugar-producing sugar beet. Table beet (also known as garden beet, blood turnip or red beet) is a popular garden vegetable throughout the United States.
The color is more than just captivating; beets along wth prickly pears make up the only edible sources of the valuable family of pigments called betalains. Current research is discovering the ability of these pigments to act as powerful antioxidants, helping in the fight against the damage caused by free radicals. Beets also provide potassium, vitamins A and C, magnesium, riboflavin, iron, copper, calcium and zinc.
Beets are fairly frost hardy and can be planted in the garden 30 days before the frost-free date for your area. Although beets grow well during warm weather, the seedlings are established more easily under cool, moist conditions. Start successive plantings at 3 to 4 week intervals until midsummer for a continuous supply of fresh, tender, young beets. Irrigation assures germination and establishment of the later plantings.
They do poorly in hot weather. Beets are well suited to large or small home gardens since they require little room. They are grown for both the roots which usually are pickled and the young tops which are used as greens.
Beets do well in most deep, well drained, friable soils except tight clay. The soil should have adequate organic matter to prevent it from crusting. Hard, crusty soil causes beet roots to be tough. Beets do best in sandy soil in the spring and heavier soil in the fall because sandy soil warms faster than heavy clay soil.
Clear the planting area of rocks, trash and large sticks. Mix fine pieces of plant material such as grass, leaves and small sticks into the soil to enrich it. Spade the soil 8 to 10 inches deep. Be sure all plant material is covered with soil so it will break down quickly.
Plant seeds about 1/2 inch deep and one inch apart. Allow 12 to 18 inches between rows. Poor stands are often the result of planting too deeply or the soil’s crusting after a heavy rain. The seedlings may emerge over a relatively long period of time, making a stand of different sizes and ages of seedlings.
Hand thinning is almost always necessary. The seedlings should be thinned to 1 to 3 inches apart. If thinning is delayed until the plants are 3 inches tall, those removed may be cooked greens, similar to spinach. Some cooks leave the small root (usually about the size of a marble) attached to the greens. Frequent shallow cultivation is important because beets compete poorly with weeds, especially when small. Because beets have extremely shallow roots, hand weeding and early, frequent and shallow cultivation are the most effective methods of controlling weeds in the rows. Deep cultivation after the weeds are large damages the beet roots.
Beets also make an excellent raised bed crop since soils are generally less compacted and there is less foot traffic. Beets are also sensitive to soil acidity. A low soil pH results in stunted growth. They prefer a pH of 6.2 to 6.8 and will tolerate 6.0 to 7.5. Fertilizers and lime are best applied using soil test results as a guide. Arrangements for soil testing can be made through your local Extension office. A fertilizer with the analysis of 5-10-10 can be applied at the time of seeding and again when the plants are about three inches high.
Beets can be harvested whenever they grow to the desired size. About 60 days are required for beets to reach 1 1/2 inches in diameter, the size often used for cooking, pickling or canning as whole beets. Beets enlarge rapidly to 3 inches with adequate moisture and space. With most varieties, beets larger than 3 inches may become tough and fibrous.

Bell pepper is a cultivar group of the species Capsicum annuum. Cultivars of the plant produce fruits in different colors, including red, yellow, green and orange. Bell peppers contain a recessive gene that prevents capsaicin from being produced, so they lack the spiciness that many other varieties of peppers have. Bell peppers are sometimes grouped with less pungent pepper varieties as sweet peppers. The term “bell pepper” or “pepper” or “capsicum” is often used for any of the large bell shaped capsicum fruits, regardless of their color.
The color can be green, red, yellow, orange and, more rarely, white, purple, blue, and brown, depending on when they are harvested and the specific cultivar. Green peppers are unripe bell peppers, while the others are all ripe, with the color variation based on cultivar selection. Because they are unripe, green peppers are less sweet and slightly more bitter than yellow, orange,purple or red peppers. When young most bell peppers are a rich, bright green, but there are also yellow, orange, purple, red and brown bell peppers. Red bell peppers are green bell peppers that have ripened longer and are very sweet.
Sweet peppers are plump, bell-shaped vegetables featuring either three or four lobes. They usually range in size from 2 to 5 inches in diameter, and 2 to 6 inches in length. Inside the thick flesh is an inner cavity with edible bitter seeds and a white spongy core. Bell peppers are not ‘hot’. They contain a recessive gene that eliminates capsaisin, the compound responsible for the ‘hotness’ found in other peppers.
Pepper is a tender, warm-season vegetable. Pepper plants require somewhat higher temperatures, and grow more slowly. Peppers are best started from seeds indoors in late winter and then transplanted into the garden after the soil and air have warmed in the spring. The plants cannot tolerate frost and do not grow well in cold, wet soil. When night temperatures are below 50° to 55°F, the plants grow slowly, the leaves may turn yellow and the flowers drop off. Raised beds, black plastic mulch and floating row covers may be used to advantage with peppers to warm and drain the soil and enhance the microenvironment of the young pepper plants in spring, when cool weather may persist.
Bell peppers need warm soil and air temperatures throughout the growing season and are very sensitive to frost. Many northern gardeners use plastic mulches, row covers, hoop houses, anything that will help grow this wonderful vegetable more quickly in cooler climes. Bell peppers need high amounts of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. Bell peppers like well drained soil in full sun. Bell peppers do well in raised beds filled with good topsoil, compost, and rotted manure mixed in. A pH near neutral (7.0) is ideal.
For soil preparation, work the soil 8-10 inches deep several weeks before planting. Rake it several times to break up the large clods. Add large amounts of organic (natural) matter especially if your soil is heavy clay. Work it into the soil. You can use compost, peat moss, rotted hay or other organic matter. Work the soil only when it is dry enough not to stick to garden tools.
Make the transplant holes 3-4 inches deep and about 1 1/2 feet apart in the row. Space the rows at least 3 feet apart. Before planting, fill the holes with water and let it soak in. Move the plants carefully from the box or flat and set them in the transplant holes. Leave as much soil as possible around the roots. Fill the hole with soil and pack it loosely around the plant. Do not cover the roots deeper than the original soil ball. leave a slightly sunken area around each plant to hold water. Water the plants after planting. Water the plants enough to keep them from wilting. Slow, deep watering helps grow a strong root system. Do not let pepper plants wilt as this well reduce yield and quality of the fruit. After the first fruit begins to emerge, place about 2 tablespoons of fertilizer around each plant about 6 inches from the stem. Water after adding the fertilizer. This will increase yield and quality of the peppers.
If peppers are picked as they mature, yields will be greater. The first peppers should be ready 8-10 weeks after transplanting. Pick bell peppers when they get shiny, dark green and firm. When left on the plant, most peppers will turn red and are still good to eat. Harvest most hot peppers when they turn red or yellow, depending on the variety. Jalapenos are mature when the reach good size and become a deep, dark green.

The Anemone family is a large one, but it is Anemone Coronaria, or poppy-flowered Anemone, which is the gem of the fall planting selection. The common name for these showy plants is Wind Flowers, which refers to their soft, breeze-fluttered blooms that add movement and life to gardens. With contrasting centers and single or double rows of petals, wind flowers look like diminutive cousins of always popular daisies and are every bit as charming. Deeply cut, ferny foliage provides a refined accent.
These fuss-free bulbs are excellent for heirloom gardens and restoration projects.
Anemone bulbs have really unique shape. The flat side is upper and the pointed side is lower. Anemone Coronaria is an excellent subject for container gardening and is a reliable performer. These bulbs are great in flower borders as well. They are an excellent cut flower. De Caen anemones are also a good choice for a butterfly garden.
The best planting season is autumn. However, some species are not hardy for the cold climate. If you grow such spieces in the area, where the temperature reaches below 0F/-18C, plant them in spring. Anemones grow from tubers and must be planted round side down, about 2″ to 3″ deep. The rule of thumb for most bulbs and tubers is to plant them twice as deep as they are wide.
If you plant hard-dried bulbs in soil and let them absorb water abruptly, they get cracks on the surface, which may cause infection or getting mold. Therefore, pre-treatment is required. Before you head out to the garden to plant, soak your anemone bulbs for 2-4 hours in a cup or small bowl of water. This will encourage them to sprout faster and get growing.
Find a location where the soil drains well. If there are still water puddles 5-6 hours after a hard rain, scout out another site. Or amend the soil with the addition of organic material to raise the level 2-3 inches to improve the drainage. Peat moss, compost, ground bark or decomposed manure all work well and are widely available. Site your anemones where they will receive sun for all, or most, of the day. Dig holes and plant the anemones. Don’t worry about which side of the bulb needs to face up. After planting, water anemones well, thoroughly soaking the area. Roots will form in the autumn, followed shortly by the foliage. Flowers will develop in the spring.

Brunnera, or Siberian Bugloss, are from western Siberia. These plants are perennial forget-me-nots, named in honor of Swiss botanist Samuel Brunner. Some catalogs still call this species Anchusa myosotidiflora, its previous name. Showy blue flowers about 1/4-inch across bloom in clusters during spring. The leaves are large and heart-shaped on slightly hairy stems. Valued for its airy, beautiful true-blue flowers over heart-shaped foliage. Plants can reach 2 feet in height but usually grow about 18 inches tall. Where summers are cool, leaves grow larger.
Brunnera is an ideal plant to choose if you’re looking for something a little more unusual for the spring garden. Throughout April and May, ‘Jack Frost’ is covered with lots of small, bright blue flowers which look rather like forget-me-nots. These are complemented by the beautiful heart-shaped foliage which is a pale silver-grey with pronounced dark green veins. It looks particularly striking planted in drifts in the woodland garden.
Largeleaf brunnera will grow best in partial shade in moist, well-drained, organic-rich soil. In southern zones, dense shade and moist soils are necessary while in northern zones, it will grow well with morning sun. They will, however, do reasonably well in a dry spot if they have shade. Generally this plant requires little care.
Divide plants when the center of the clump starts to deteriorate. Propagated through seed, root cuttings or division. Readily self sows once established. No serious insect or disease problems.

Geranium Rozanne is a hybrid in the family Geraniaceae, the result of a cross between Geranium himalayense and Geranium wallichianum Buxton’s Variety. Hybrid Cranes Bills or cranesbill are very popular in Europe. Members of this genus should not be confused with the common annual geranium of summer gardens, which are actually in the Genus Pelargonium. Hardy geraniums or cranesbill geraniums get their common name from the resemblance of their seed-pod shape to that of a cranes bill or beak. Blooms of Bressingham first introduced Geranium Rozanne at the 2000 Chelsea Flower Show.
This magnificent new (and true) geranium is a big plant with bright blue flowers that bloom all summer long, showing great color until frost. This is one of the best recent hybrid forms of Cranesbill, excellent for long-season display. It forms a compact mound of deeply-cut green leaves, bearing loose clusters of bright violet-purple cup-shaped flowers starting in early summer. Flowering can continue for weeks or months, particularly in regions with cool summers.
Geraniums make great edgers and are wonderful for use under leggy plants, like roses. A free-flowering clump former, like ‘Rozanne’ is especially nice at the base of an entry gate or on the corner of a garden border. ‘Rozanne’s’ heat tolerance also makes her a good choice for rock gardens and containers or window boxes. The brilliant blue is all the more electric when paired with yellow flowers like coreopsis, black-eyed Susan and goldenrod.
Easily grown in average, medium moisture, well-drained soil in full sun to part shade. Prefers moist, organic soils. Best grown in full sun with some afternoon protection. ROZANNE has exceptional heat tolerance, and generally will bloom throughout the summer. If flowering stops and/or plant foliage depreciates in the heat of the summer, plants may be cut or sheared back to rejuvenate, shape and/or encourage additional bloom. Side stems may be removed or trimmed at any time to control spread.
Geranium Rozanne thrives in full sun to partial shade in moist, well-draining soil. It is hardy in USDA gardening zones 5-8. To maintain peak bloom and foliage appearance simply shear back old foliage in late summer to 3 inches.